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| Re: Spinnaker Sheet Blocks
[Re: jes58]
#73255 04/22/06 11:11 PM 04/22/06 11:11 PM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 3,116 Annapolis, MD Mark Schneider
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,116 Annapolis, MD | You need to see the chute flying first before you fix the block. The spin lead may need to go inboard and forward.
Determine this position first and then consider how to manage your lines.
Build in the capacity to double your ratchet blocks if you want to distance race. This sucks for a buoys race because the jibes are slow but critical if the crew is to survive a couple of hour chute run.
Another option is to use a block on the chute clew and run the chute back to a cleat near the ratchet block. This will double your purchase on the chute. The down side is that you need to send somebody low to jibe. Deadly on a crowded course.
Remember to set your mast rake first then your pole tip height to get your spin luff lenght correct. Fly the chute on a light air day and change the lead position... looking at the break on the luff and the exhaust on the leech.
crac.sailregattas.com
| | | Re: Spinnaker Sheet Blocks
[Re: jes58]
#73256 04/22/06 11:39 PM 04/22/06 11:39 PM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 12,310 South Carolina Jake
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 12,310 South Carolina | Whoever designs your sail should be able to tell you where to put the block. Historically, cats started with rear-beam sheeted large and full sails. However, we're finding that smaller, but higher-aspect-ratio, sails are the ticket...which is why you are seeing more blocks mounted further forward.
Jake Kohl | | |
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