Well, the tiller arms were getting a little wobbly on my H-18 so I drilled out the old rivets and began re-riveting the tiller arms to the upper rudder castings. Hobie specs said 3/16 x 1/2", so that is what I used, or tried to use. The rivet popped before the connection was tight - which, I believe, indicates that the rivet is too long (is this true?). So I drilled it out [stainless steel, yuck]. Then I measured the tiller tube: 1/8" and the rudder casting: 3/16" and guestimated that another 1/8" would be needed for the grip range. That brings it to 7/16" only 1/16" away from where I am with the 1/2" rivets. Well there was more play than 1/16" for sure.



But they are not even close to working. Any ideas? Is my math bad? Well, I know it is - but I mean in this case. Not sure where to go with this. Any riveters out there?

W/W

H-18

H-20 style tiller connectors

Is there anyway to put backing washers in the tube to give the rivet a smalle hole to seat in?

Are you using rivets with s.s. mandrels? The 1/2 rivets should work. I put some 5min. epoxy around the end and then rivet.

David

Yes I am using stainless steel rivets. I may try using a longer aluminum rivet (easier to drill out) and see if it works better. Old rivets had no backing washers and worked OK for 3 years. A simple project has turned in a pain.

Puzzled

W/W

I would not use the aluminum rivets even if they work ( tighten up) they will not stay tight for very long. It is very easy to drill out the ss rivets just use a bit big enough to drill off the rivet head say 1/4 and use a punch to drive the rivet through( takes about 30 sec). That way you don't enlarge the rivet hole. You will have to put some tape or epoxy on the end before putting together if there is any play or wear at the connection.

David

I was only going to us the aluminum rivet as a test to see if the problem is the length of the rivet. Then remove it and replace wiith ss.

W/W

Stainless steel has a tendency to bind and gaul to itself. This will cause the shaft of the rivot to break before the takeup is complete. (leaving a loose rivot) . Try a small amount of light weight oil (3M) down inside the rivot before the attempt, It worked for me and left a very tight connection.

I tried the oil-in-the-rivet idea but I got the same result. I am really frustrated since now my rudders are out of commission. Local hobie dealer doesn't know a rivet from a mainsail.

W/W

What kind of rivit gun are you using? If it is clear access you should be able to set the rivit tight. Factory length appears good. Push the rivit in tight and get the head of the gun down hard on the rivit. Pull the rivit without leaving it get loose on the set up.



If you still have problems. Buy a pneumatic rivit gun. I have used these guns alot and they work great. You can buy them over the internet for between $80 and $150 bucks.

Try A different brand of rivot. I had this problem in trying to apply a mod to my rudders. The shaft would always pop before the rivot was tight. Oil worked great (for me). I purchased the rivots I used from west marine. Not the cheapest , but it got the job done. If your length is correct, then rivoting is usually pretty staight forward. You might try enlarging the opening of the inside of the rivot itself. Tap out the shaft and put the next size drill that just won't fit all the way through. then give it a try. Good Luck

After sleeping on it last night, Drilling out the rivots (themselves) was how I was able to get them to take up properly, as well as a little oil. If you take the shaft out of the rivot body and examine closely, you will see that the has two sizes of bores through it. Open the hole through the rivot itself as minimal as possible (next bit size) then oil and try again. Not too much or you risk a weak connection. I realize this is a pain in the rear. But when your back is against the wall, it worked.

Stainless is a soft metal and will drill easily with a sharp bit. Let me know if this works for you.

I am using a pneumatic rivet gun!

W/W