I am running an old Hydra which has the same style of board as the Tornado.
I am wanting to find the way the shock cord lift mechanism is set up. At present I lift with cord though a cheek block and cam cleat. This is effective but more cord on the boat than I think I need. A cord pull down with some sort of shock lift would be ideal I think.
Cheers

I think what you are describing must be an old setup. The mid 90's Marstrøm model had no such thing, just four plastic pieces in the trunk keeping the board up or down.
The later models have a small piece of thin shock cord, about 5cm, secured to the board as a loop. This loop is slipped over a small button in front or back of the trunk to keep the board up or down. Very simple and clean.
On the late models I assume the bungee will break if you hit something. On the 90s models the friction is enough to keep the board up, or down. I think the small plastic strips are made of teflon, and the system works great (I have personally tested it) <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Hey, thanks for that reply. I like not to have to get over to the other side to have the board come up as I sail with no crew.
I am a little confused by your description where the loop is secured to. The boards on this cat are too close to the main beam for the button to be there.
It will be an older style of operation I am sure but not everything old was silly.
many thanks.

Reading your post again I see that there is no remote for putting the board down either... I must be getting something wrong in your description.

With the spi the tornados dont raise and lower their boards downwind anymore. We now sail with both boards down all the time, as that has proven fastest.
I dont know for sure, but I think the remote control went out of fashion quite some time ago? Before we got the spi, crew could always manage the boards while going wild jibing downwind.

So I don't need shock cords, just a spinny! : ) Cheers

mystere 6.0 set up is good too . If you are beaching its ideal. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I have a Reg White that I added the retractable and remote setup to. It is necessary where we sail due to patches of floating weed.

I have a piece of 3/8 bungie that goes into the front beam via some turning blocks and is about 8 feet long on each side. You need this much length due to the approx 2ft travel of the top of the board. The hooked onto the loop on the board that is normally used to pull it up.

Remotes are as follows:
1) Turning block about 6 inches fwd of front of board trunk
2) Camcleat on opposite side of boat, directly across from turning block
3) line run from loop on board, through turning block, under the tramp, and back out through the lacing to a camcleat.
4) Very important: vaccuum hose tubing around tramp lacing where the remote lines brushes against the lacing. If you don't do this, you will have a lot of friction, and you will cut your tramp line within a couple of hours.
5) Optional, add some bungie in the undertramp line reduce the shock from grounding the boards.

My pull up remote is fine.. Just comes to rear of board and right angles through cam cleat and across tramp like any other. So the shock cord for lift is all I need. After what has been said about not bringing them up at all I am thinking about the fact that the board moves back as it is raised and will gain some advantage as it does that.
Rick White mentions in his book that the Tornado guys decided to leave their rudders down for more speed also.
I lift one rudder on my Windrush because it is simple and very fast and the feel is great but leave all others as the action of raising is more trouble than it is worth.
I am used to having the lines cross the boat and am not worried by that.