Could someone give me pointers on replacing the pull-up bungee lines on a Nacra 5.5 rudder system?
It looks pretty straight forward. For each, the plan is to use 5' of 5/16 shock cord with a couple of stainless hog rings to bind the bungee ends. Could it be that simple?
Pull-downs will be replaced at the same time with a 3/16" prestretch line.
Could someone give me pointers on replacing the pull-up bungee lines on a Nacra 5.5 rudder system?
It looks pretty straight forward. For each, the plan is to use 5' of 5/16 shock cord with a couple of stainless hog rings to bind the bungee ends. Could it be that simple?
Pull-downs will be replaced at the same time with a 3/16" prestretch line.
Sail fast, Tom G
I took the opportunity to eliminate the bungies and went with a pull up / pull down system. I much prefer the ability to lock the rudders at any setting in between all the way up and all the way down. Good luck, Greg
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised. - George Will "It's not that liberals aren't smart, it's just that so much of what they know isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
Re: Nacra 5.5 rudders
[Re: bullswan]
#82527 08/16/0603:24 AM08/16/0603:24 AM
Thanks for the suggestions. Did one rudder last night. Simple, although lesson learned, always recheck the precut lengths before installing. Guess the cordage person decided to be a bit generous.
I got rid of the bungie cords and use two pull cord lines one to pull the rudders down and one to pull the rudders up. I used two Ronstan Cleats so that I can adjust the amount of UP or the amount of DOWN I want and it stays there. I also got rid of the slop in the tiller/tie bar connection by using tie-rod ends instead of the existing connectors. I got the idea from a prior posting. Can't take credit for what I stole!!! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Greg
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised. - George Will "It's not that liberals aren't smart, it's just that so much of what they know isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
Re: Nacra 5.5 rudders
[Re: bullswan]
#82530 08/17/0608:11 AM08/17/0608:11 AM
I got rid of the bungie cords and use two pull cord lines one to pull the rudders down and one to pull the rudders up. I used two Ronstan Cleats so that I can adjust the amount of UP or the amount of DOWN I want and it stays there. I also got rid of the slop in the tiller/tie bar connection by using tie-rod ends instead of the existing connectors. I got the idea from a prior posting. Can't take credit for what I stole!!! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Greg
Guess it was me, I posted a picture with the tie-rods about a year ago, still works perfect for me. Nice to see that you use them as well!!
Re: Nacra 5.5 rudders
[Re: Kennethsf]
#82531 08/17/0608:30 AM08/17/0608:30 AM
Ken, for those of us who did not see your tie-rod ends. Could you enlighten further? I added Hobie 20 connectors to my H17 and they worked rather well.
Just finished refurbishing my rudders and they work like a dream. I added Hobie connector bushings in each of the pin connector points and basically eliminated all of the connector looseness.
Rudder bushings are next.
Sail fast, Tom G
Re: Nacra 5.5 rudders
[Re: Kennethsf]
#82532 08/17/0609:15 AM08/17/0609:15 AM
I got rid of the bungie cords and use two pull cord lines one to pull the rudders down and one to pull the rudders up. I used two Ronstan Cleats so that I can adjust the amount of UP or the amount of DOWN I want and it stays there. I also got rid of the slop in the tiller/tie bar connection by using tie-rod ends instead of the existing connectors. I got the idea from a prior posting. Can't take credit for what I stole!!! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Greg
Guess it was me, I posted a picture with the tie-rods about a year ago, still works perfect for me. Nice to see that you use them as well!!
I'm sorry Ken for not giving you the credit directly but I did use your suggestion from last year and I love it. I didn't use the control lever on the rudder arms you designed. Instead I went with two simple Ronstan Cleats to control up and down of the rudders.
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised. - George Will "It's not that liberals aren't smart, it's just that so much of what they know isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
I got rid of the bungie cords and use two pull cord lines one to pull the rudders down and one to pull the rudders up. I used two Ronstan Cleats so that I can adjust the amount of UP or the amount of DOWN I want and it stays there. I also got rid of the slop in the tiller/tie bar connection by using tie-rod ends instead of the existing connectors. I got the idea from a prior posting. Can't take credit for what I stole!!! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Greg
Guess it was me, I posted a picture with the tie-rods about a year ago, still works perfect for me. Nice to see that you use them as well!!
I'm sorry Ken for not giving you the credit directly but I did use your suggestion from last year and I love it. I didn't use the control lever on the rudder arms you designed. Instead I went with two simple Ronstan Cleats to control up and down of the rudders.
no problem <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> for the others: I fill try to find the pictures and repost them
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised. - George Will "It's not that liberals aren't smart, it's just that so much of what they know isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
I remember that now...I really like that flip lever you came up with...now if you can just figure out how to make it work the opposite direction and be able to adjust the height of the line as it turns toward the pivot arm so you can infinitely adjust the amount of pressure required for release...!
Jake Kohl
Re: Nacra 5.5 rudders
[Re: Jake]
#82540 08/22/0609:07 AM08/22/0609:07 AM
Here's a thought...use a couple of those harken micro-through hull sheaves running part of the line internal to the rudder arm...The black standoff on top of the arm could be adjustable to control the angle of the line leading to the flip lever allowing you to really dial in the amount of pressure required to automatically release the rudder from a ground impact (or fish).
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised. - George Will "It's not that liberals aren't smart, it's just that so much of what they know isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised. - George Will "It's not that liberals aren't smart, it's just that so much of what they know isn't so" -Ronald Reagan