I have had my new(to me) 5.2 out on the water a few times but haven't been out on the trap. I feel like it is rigged wrong. If someone had some really good detailed pics of theirs rigged that would be great. Also, since the trap lines run through the front crossbar, doesn't that pull you forward while out on the trap, in my mind it might be difficult to stay aft with it pulling on you.

Try a little forum searching. Trap solutions have been discussed before.

The N5.2 started out as a single trap machine. The wire you are using is for the crew. It doesn't take much to add the second wire. You will need to put some grommets in your tramp behind the daggerboards for the bungie to run through.

Hey,
I would use the trap wire that is run through the front beam for crew only. Your right, it will pull forward some, it will also put excessive strain and wear on that shockcord to be used far back, by the skipper all the time. It's not a big deal to be used by the crew as your not usually that far back. It's actually a nice place for the crew because it keeps it just out of the way but still there to grab and get out on the wire.
I have a few pictures of my 6.0 that I am selling on webshots. Here is the link to one and if you zoom in by the sidestay you can see a green shockcord coming out of a grommet in the tramp through a fairlead then to the trap wire. This is what I have found to be the best placement for a skipper's trap wire.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2007120260095730281vaKGaL

So you'll need a grommet in the side of the tramp and a fairlead on the edge of the hull on each side. The shockcord for the trap goes through the fairlead, through the grommet, under the tramp and back out the grommet on the other side and out the fairlead. Either add a 2nd wire and use this or use the single wire in this location.
-Todd

By the way.. are you the same one that posted the pictures on the facebook group, "you might be a college sailor if..."? I wish I could get more college kids to sail cats... out of the 40 kids on my sailing team 1 has a old school Tornado and none have ever raced one.

On the 5.2 I had, when I put on a new trampoline, it was missing the grommet for the skipper's trapeze bunji. To get me by, I put a small shackle and small block attached to the shroud attachment point on the hull and ran the bunji from there through the front beam, and to the other shroud. That way the crew's trapeze would be at the front beam and the skipper's at the shroud. I did eventually have the grommet installed on both sides of the trampoline.

I have my skipper trap running through a block at the base of the shroud like Jake mentioned. In fact, I think I got this idea from a picture of Jake's old 5.2 . It works well. I have attached a picture of my starboard side setup.

-Rob V.
Panama City
Nacra 5.2

I like the idea of the grommets in the tramp, but I have a few questions. First off how hard is it to add grommets to a tramp and second, how long should the shock cord be unstretched?

It just needs to be long enough so it doesn't sagg into the water under the tramp and no longer.
The position is is probbably best 1 foot back from the sidestay and an inch or so from the edge of the tramp.

Here's my setup:

I've done the Peter Pan thing, swinging on my trap wire WAY forward. If the bungie does NOT break you can recover and sail on. The only way to keep it from breaking is to make it have LOTS of stretch length...it must be long to start but still under tension.

If the grommet is a foot behind the sidestay (typical) then a straight line from the stay through the grommet aims at the rear beam and hull junction on the far side. I put a little block at that point and lead the bungie down through the grommet, diagonal to the rear beam, across along the rear beam to the block on the other end of the beam, then across and up through the grommet on the other side, forming an X. It's tensioned with lots of hidden length, 22 feet untensioned. That ought to be long enough!

On deck I lead the bungie to a block on a short tether off the sidestay and up to the trap hardware. This tether offers enough distance to keep the trap from winding around the stay.

The LONG bungie is always under constant tension. It does not get appreciably tighter as you move to the rear beam. When weather eats up the exposed ends of the bungie you have lots of stretch to cut off 18 inches and retie giving you fresh bungie.

We go a bit overboard with bunji systems on the trapeze lines for coastal distance racing. I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this system, but I put this together with the intent of A) having extra bunji length to possibly survive a trip to the front of the boat and B) have a backup bunji in case one (or maybe even two) were to break. This is what I came up with and it worked well during the Tybee last year. We actually started using the "backup" bunji for the skipper's trap since the one coming out the side of the hull tended to mess with the crew when sheeting the main.

Team Seacats Article

I set up the traplines on my 5.2 and will take some photos tomorrow. It is simple but has extra cord under the tramp for those swinging events around the mast. Installing the grommets is pretty easy, my setup only needs two small blocks. I will posts the pics tomorrow evening.

Carl

Nacra 5.2 2230

Saylor Specialties
www.saylorspecialties.com

I'd run those bungies parallel to the hull from front beam to rear beam (using micro blocks riveted to the beams), with a block on the rear through-hull to direct the final portion of the bungee across the tramp to the opposite (front) through-hull and to the trapeze.

For the skipper, a similar system is used, except the final section would be routed from the front beam straight back to a grommet on the rear of the tramp, and up to the trap line.

If you were into redundancy, you could make each trap bungie separate, so if one breaks the other three remain..

If you need a lot of stretch, you could double the bungie length by adding more fore-aft lengths (and double the block)

This keeps the bungie lines from catching stuff under the tramp if the lines go slack. Also easier to re-route if it breaks.

Did I confuse you?

Here are the photos of my 5.2. I only have one set of traps since I sail it single. I won't go into detail as I think the photos are pretty much self explanitory. The bungie ends in a loop above the tramp where I attach the wire system. The gromet is inline with the rear of the daggerboard slot.

Carl

Saylor Specialties
www.saylorspecialties.com