As Matt said Oxalic Acid (Wood Bleach) will work great! Then take some light polishing compound with a buffer or just go right to a Polish/Wax. You will want to seal off the pours after you use the Oxalic. Wear gloves while sponging on. You can dilute down to where it will take about 15 minutes for the stains to come out. You do not want it strong enough to wipe on and see the stains coming out as you sponge it on. That is just too much. Take it slow. As you are sponging think about seeing results as you finish going around the boat and seeing the first part changing. Go around again until you get the desired results. May want to wash with soap and water before waxing.

Later,
Dan

In my world thhis boat is called a Windrush 14.
The gel coat will come up like new. Just take the stickers off and replace.
Prob with the fittings is often that the boat has become sloppy and a lot of people glue it all together. This could account for paint around or on the joiners at the beam sections. This boat was made to transport on car roof racks and once the big screws are loosened the whole hull flops inboard.
Don't paint it!!!

That's right, I understand the same design is still being made "down under" as the Windrush 14.

BTW, I spoke w/ my local sailing shop today after discovering that the owner used to race a Trac 14, and he says I've got a sweet boat. He also says that I'd be crazy to paint the hulls, so I think I'm starting to get the hint. Anyone disagree?

there is a product called MAGICA it is a rust remover, just apply, wait a few minutes and rinse. Great product, I have used it many times. magicarustremover.com

I would try sanding and polishing first.

If you want to get them sprayed, paint or gel-coat I could help you out with it.

If the hulls are consistent in color, a better way might be to spray them with Vinyl Ester Duratec. If you want to talk about it call me. Check PM.

Be carefull with the leak test if you put water in the hulls a little depth is a lot of weight. If you do it on the trailer make sure it is attatched to the car so it doesnt flip up suddenly and take out all the bulkheads as the water rushes out. Best way I know is to put the water in with the hose, turn off the tap when enough water is in. Leave the hose in place then when you have found your leak take the hose off the tap lay it on the ground and the water will syphon out. As for the paint I spent a lot of time and money painting my cat with perfection and it does look good but marks show up even more on a newly painted boat. I would tidy the boat as much as possible then enjoy the sailing a salesman would then call the remaining marks the patina of age.sorry about the ramble
regards

This boat often leaks at the bungs. Just take out and re seal.
This boat is also as tough as old boots so you don't have to playu it with kid gloves,
The back inspection port should have a gear box inside it which has often come away. Replace pot rivets with bolts and drill a hole in the middle of the lid and tie onto boat.
It is a beach not race boat so check wear on hulls and perhaps put another layer of resin on.
Important to use the rudders properly. IF you go to the Aussie Windrush sites you will find an original manual you can download.
Should have a 5 or 6 to one boom sheeting arrangement.
When you have it sorted ask for some tips to get the best out of it and I can give you plenty.
Photo of my old one included

Warbird, thanks for the great info from someone who's owned one! A couple of questions:

1) What's a BUNG? (Sorry, we're losing something in the cross-ocean translation--I really don't know the term!)

2) What, specifically, did you have in mind when you said that it's important to use the rudders properly? (I do have an original copy of the manual, by the way.)

You're right about the box in the inspection ports coming loose. That's the case in the starboard hull, but I'm planning to remove both inspection ports (which were installed horribly by the last owner), reattach that box, then put new ports in w/ a line attached to the caps.

I've already got the 5 or 6 to one boom sheeting setup, and all the blocks (which are Harken) are in excellent condition. Although the previous owned left the boat itself out in the elements, at least he stowed all the sails and gear in his garage!

The bottoms of the hulls have very little wear on them, so I shouldn't have to reglass.

Your old boat looks great, BTW. Hopefully, I'll have mine looking likewise within the next month or so.

Oh, one other question for Warbird. The previous owner replaced the tiller joints when they broke w/ radiator hose (!!!) held on with hose clamps. Quite clever and works better than you'd imagine, but he didn't make a hole for the rope for raising the rudders, and consequently the ropes where pulled out of the tiller from the rudder end. The "down" spring is still installed and working in each tiller, but my question is whether I'll be able to rethread the "up" rope through the spring assembly with the spring still installed? Or do I need to disassemble? Any tips here? Thanks!

Bung is the plug at the stern to release water from hulls.

To use the rudders properly I mean learn their actioan on shore and don't just let them hit the beach and lift arm hoping they will survive. They don't for long.

The elbows for the rudder system are cheap and excellent. You can order them form the Aussie windrush site.
To unload the pressure on the rudders just jam a piece of wood or whatever under the arm after you lift it. This will let the rudders swing.
A piece of strait wire will go through the section while spring is in I think.
(I presume the system is still presusure loaded and it is just the elbow that is missing)

You could refer to your manual to imagine what you are having to do blind.
Elecrical tape is good to secure and new line with and the wire will drag that through.
Use a ball end once fitted and with the rudder in down position the ball should be almost tight to elbow.

The rudders have three positions that with a little practice are easily gaged ofr leaving and arriving.
The system works very well once mastered and is the only one with which I bother to raise the windward blade.

Yes, only the tiller joint connecting to the crossbar is missing on each side. The tillers themselves are still spring loaded. Regarding your advice about the piece of wood, what do you mean about jamming it "under the arm"--between the arm and the top of the hull near the transom, or where? I'm at work now and can't look at it, but I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean.

Hey, at least I know what a bung is now!

lift the tiller arm. this releases strain. place piece of whatever in under arm close to stern. Between topside and arm.

OK, a question about the rudder pintle fitting atop my transom. (see attached) It's currently loose on both hulls, as though the rivets are stretched out. You get quite a bit of movement when you wiggle the fitting, which results in slop in the rudder then installed. This isn't normal, is it? (Never looked on my Prindle!)

Anyway, I don't have a giant rivet gun to redo them with but am wondering if I can just drill out the sloppy rivets and put in stainless steel bolts w/ teflon lock nuts instead. Any reason why this wouldn't work? Another idea was to just shoot some 5200 under the fitting.

Can anyone confirm the best route?

Thanks!

And here's a view from the bottom of the fitting...

The bolts will work but make sure there's no interference between the bolt head and the rudder casting. You might also think about making a backing plate for underneath the hull lip instead of using washers. That'll distribute the load on the 'glass. Use the fitting as a template.

A couple of issues here. Sometimes the placement of this part is crucial once the rudder cross arm is down as it affects whether the arm hits the boat frame on way through.
So set it all up and check that. This detail is finished a little differently to the boats downunder I think.
I would remove, fill, redrill and make sure there are no clearance issues (rivits have a low profile) with the bolts you use.
Bolts are not a prolem in themselves. As I have said bolts are a far better option in some places but a manufacturer will always go cheaper and faster.
Steel on steel and ali with ali is also a good rule of thumb. Don't cover or paint stailess as it will deteriorate if in an airtight situation.