I am thinking of modifing my daggerboards to be raised by rope from across the tramp.
I already know of the cut groove system but I dont want to risk weakening my boards. I thought I might try a thin cloth material about 1cm wide to run down the leading edge and glue and fasten it 160mm past half way point on the boards to be able to raise them completely. This cloth would go through the raising pully and tie onto rope to extend across the tramp.

Has anybody tried this or another variation to this method? Any recommendations of the thin strip cloth like material that needs to wrap nicely to the leading edge and feed through a pulley.

You wont be able to use a rope to raise them.

Actually this year I saw just such a sysem introduced to the EU Blade F16's. It was first tried on some A-cats I believe. It seems to work well.

The tape is however glued to the boards somewhere in the middle of the cord and not the leading egde.

I didn't ask about the exact type of type material used. It was woven but felt smooth nevertheless.

I don't think a pully or block was even used. The tape just rested on the hull and that was it. But I'll have to check. Won't be able to do that till sailing season starts here in EU, april 2007.

Wouter

Yes, no pully needed. Cord style lifters just have a fairlead at edge of casing.
I have a Nacra 14squred which is new to me and after my PT I am clear that these boards desperately need lifters.
The attachment needs to be in middle of board and lift at right angles to deck. Don't be tempted to try to follow cant of boards.

hey there Bandit,
Was on Stephens F18 which has a 1cm thick piece of material about half way down and he doesnt use a puly system or anything like that it just sits there.
Alot easier to pull the boards up with this type of system rather than the manual lifting system.
The system on his boat must be alright considering its a capricorn
Cheers
Will

The ribbon like material sounds like it could work. It attaches to a rope as it finishes its journey across the tramp.
That sounds like what I am after but the next step is how to pack the top and bottom of the casing so the board can move freely up and down but with as little sideways play as possible. It would have 160mm of ribbon exiting the hull so mounted on the sides it might catch the water flow. On the leading edge it would flow nicley to each side. A roller made from a pully mounted at bottom of the caseing pushing against the leading edge would help hold the ribbon in place. Still I am keen to hear more veiws on the subject as I am still turning the cogs in my brain for the best solution.

Stephen just has some type of carpet like material to slide alond and it seens to work really well. Had no trouble bringing the boards up. Seriously thinking about trying on the mossie.

Can you make it so that when one is down the others up?
Connected so all you have to do is push one down when you tack?

A little bit of engineering and testing Im sure you'll be able to do something of the sort. Make single handed sailing alot easier.

William

Hey Will,

Looks like a few of the boys will hit out again this Sunday for some more training.

Thats the idea I was looking for.
Next question what is the strip made of.
I was thinking a rubber strip that goes directly across to the other board applying stretch when the boards are down.
You could then release the rope that pulls the boards down and thay could pop up automatically.

The line is webbing such as used for seat belts.

Our cats are designed to utilise both boards when going upwind and need pretty much the full area of both. Try sailing with only 1 board and note results.

We shattered a c/board in the first race of our states (first lap) and raced the remaining regatta with only 1 board.

No Port tack without starboard board..... We slid sideways a LOT. If we flew the hull too high, we lost a lot of ground. On the other tack we made better headway but still slid sideways a bit compared to boats around us.

Thanks for the info I like my rubber idea but I am not sure how well it will work so I'll give it a go and if it doesn't work I will end up using the webbing. The next big problem is a strong bonding from the strip to the board.
Any recomendations out there?

The Cap has a hole drilled threw the board and the webbing is epoxied in.

Thanks for that Steve I have a clearer picture of what I want to do. I'll use the webbing as it will absorb resin better than rubber. To save my auto raising idea I might run the webbing under the tramp and connect it to a strong bungee to pull them up. This will rely heavilly on the how freely the boards lift up.

When the boards are loaded up, they can take some effort to raise. More than what I believe you will be able to achieve with bungee...... But by all means, give it a shot or try other systems.

has anyone ever thought of making the boards bouyant so that they pop up naturally? Then all that would be needed is a line (there ya go Robi) that would run from either side of the trunk, through the top of the board. When you pull the line, the boards go down. Cleat and it stays down. Uncleat and they pop most of the way up themselves.

Standard feature on homebuild Taipans. Sadly they do also pop up during tacks and such. That is why quickly all kinds of friction devices are fitted to keep the boards down.

Wouter

would something like this not work?