Bring that to Catfest next year. Does it have enough distance to hit Peninsula Yacht Club? <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

You will not look back after making at least a 6 to 1 which is remote to each side.
This can be achieved cheaply.
Cheap small blocks and cam cleats at outside of hull will do it.
You can go to swivelling cam cleats off mast etc but 16 to 1 and internal bla bla bla is not needed. It can often just be a boys and big numbers thing.
Being able to access rotation and downhaul from side of boat while sailing is really a leap forward though so do it.

If you dont use swiveling cam cleats, how will you rig this downhaul without making mast rotation in weak winds harder?
Just curious, as I always have tought the downhaul lines lead out to the trapeze is interfering with the spi sheet.

we usually lead out downhauls to the trapeze - but under the spin sheet...it works out OK.

attach the downhaul ends to a bungee that run either in the main beam or under the tramp, that will keep it out of hte way of the spin sheets.

WWJKD?
He would run them to the trapeze, just like most of the rest of us.
Also, the cam cleat has to be mounted on the mast, otherwise it will interfere with mast rotation. I'd just get the standard mast rotation system that Hobie or Nacra uses on their newer boats. It'll make for a quick and easy installation, and be pretty much ready to use.

But, if you wanna go the super cool route:
Get some 13.20 oz carbon line, 3.45 mm of course, and do a quadra-cascade system with Harken carbo blocks (be sure to use the platinum edition though, the bearings are much better!). Instead of tying bowlines to your blocks in the quadra-cascade, have the line super spliced, and then have heat-shrink kevlar tape put over the splice area. This should create for you the best downhaul possible on your boat. It'll run smoother, work better, and be easy to use and install.

Jake and Bill,

we run the downhaul lines from the swivelling cleats out to the shroud today. From there they pass trough a block before a bungee suck them under the tramp. Spi sheet goes over the downhaul lines. However, uncleating the downhaul when trapeezing low can be an issue when the spi sheet lies on top. The downhaul lines running out to the shrouds is also one thing extra for the crew to watch out for when tacking or jibing in weak winds. So if there was an elegant way to run the lines from the mast base under the tramp and out to the shrouds it would be worthwhile to have a look at. Hence the question.. I think I have seen a Tornado rigged this way, but I can't remember how it was done.

Thanks. I've decided to go ahead and upgrade. I'll go with a standard system with dual lines for each side of the boat rather than trying to design and construct something myself. In the end, I doubt I would save that much money and have it be as effective.

It won't have to have the highest purchase in the world and I don't have to worry about spin lines since my boat is equipped with a chute or Hooter. I only have barberhaulers, but I can easily work around them. They're not used much anyway except for downwind sailing.

This is a sweet exit cam

ronstan RF5

The Harken is fine until the S/S plate gets bent up. It's a PITA to straighten.

The problem I had with the Ronstans is that under load the plastic housing can bend and the bearings "jump" out.

I also had the plastic base break on me. Like I said, Harken is working on a replacement for this specific block. I still have it (the Ronstan) on my boat until the new Harken alternative is out.

Guys/Gals:

Most of us have one of these 8 to 1 systems:

http://www.murrays.com/archive/26.pdf

I am going on 6 years and no problem. I have enough line to run to the traps. REAL easy to adjust when needed.

Doug

double blocks or quad?

Derek:

I have a slightly different setup that was made by dealer, BUT I would go with quad. Looks much easier to remove and lines should move easier. If you want to be class legal usee the 6 to 1, BUT run lines to the traps so you can adjust from the wire.

Just my opinion,
Doug

If you're going to lay out some money, look at item C on this page from the Murray catalogue. You save some money getting it all in one and it's easy to mount. Cheek blocks and a pair of doubles will give you 8:1 or a double above with a single cascade to double that would yield 8 as well.

Shop around for best price or buy it from Rick and support our forum GrandMaster.

http://www.murrays.com/archive/26.pdf

Derek/David:

Yea get it form Rick.. I will start using in his catalog reference.. Just had Murrys loaded. Sorry Rick. Still cheaper to just get 01-4522.

Doug

If you go with the double blocks, you can then later add a pair of singles by the grommet and cascade to 16 to 1. You just need a second line (on each side) tied off to the double, up through the single, and cleated off to the clam cleat on each side of the mast. A possible problem with the quad would be if there weren't enough room above the boom for it, in other words, it would run into the boom when really cranking on the downhaul. Doubles will bypass the boom, and avoid the potential problem.

Peter Shapiro
P19MX

I've given Murray's plenty of business over the years. I figure that it's time to start throwing it Rick's way. After all, it was HIS advice from his DVD that got me started down this road. Thanks Rick! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

And there's another added expense not talked about here. On top of the cost of the downhaul kit, there's the actual lines to consider. I'm guessing two sets of good lines at those lengths will cost a pretty penny as well.

They're not going to be that bad. Go with the standard Excel if you're not real serious about it. Go Excel Racing if you want to get crazy.

P182:

You will need one piece of line. Enough to run from one trap through the cleats and blocks and out to other trap. A little extra for slack. I just release both the cleats and line up the ends a back on boat then cleat and tie to traps.

Doug