I'm doing the mid-winter, "I want to go sailing but the lake is hard" gear check and tune up. I noticed some broken strands on one of my trap wires. Has anyone had good experience with replacing the stock wires with hi-tech lines? I know I've seen it talked about but couldn't find it with the search.

Thanks,
ak

Contact NCSUTrey

Way lighter than the normal SS lines, wont chafe your mainsail and the handles wont slide up during a capsize. Breaking strength of 1,800lbs minus 5% per eye splice, two per line.

I have not been able to test these bad boys yet. They are the same length of my old trap lines so they should be fine.

The bullet blocks were not included. Although I am sure he can include them if interested.

it is really easy to do yourself for the most part- but I have no intention of taking business away from trey. I recently did mine although it looks like trey did the better brummel type eye splice than the simple eye splice I did. 7/64 spectra/amsteel works great and is very cheap.
My crew is hesitant to trust the line rather than the wire but it is actually stronger.

Robi- do you trust those blocks? I have been thinking about doing the same but am worried about the strength of the blocks.

Funny you ask, these are the same blocks you ran on the downhaul of your 6.0 <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> So yep I trust em. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

yeah, I get your point... but if they broke on the downhaul no one would end up in the water!!!

I dont like them. They feel spongy compared to wire.

Read your class rules, because you can't use dyneema line--you must you wire for the trap on an F18.

Matt J.

I believe he's talking about an I17R...but the case is still pretty much the same, you have to use the Performance rigging to stay class legal...so no composite traps if you intend to class race.

So if you aren't afoul of any class rules and wish to use them, how are they on chafe resistance?

I used Dyneema for our trap lines on my Tornado. The lines always lasted close to 1 year of use. No chafing or coming apart.

As long as you watch the lines for chafe wear, they should last quite a long time. I've used similar line for my spin pole bridles for over 2 years now without any trouble. If you do notice a little chafage (stop sitting in the sand with a bathing suit on...!), a few wraps of electrical or sail tape will protect them. Heat shrink tubing should also help as well.
I built those trap lines for Robi, and if they were class legal on the Nacra 20, I'd be using them too. I'll trust 12 strand dyneema or spectra over wire for most any application, with the exeption of standing rigging.

Trey- why wouldn't you trust it for standing rigging? I was going to use some as a forestay on my 6.o before I got rid of it.

PBO is regularly used for forestays on racing yachts. It has absolutely no creep but needs to be protected from UV.

Spectra has creep issues but is strong. The word is that it doesn't like shock loads.

Dyneema has less creep issues and is strong. The word is that it can handle shock loads better than Spectra.

Spectra and Dyneema are almost identical chemically but from my research the production process is slightly different which causes the different properties.

I've been using 3mm and 4mm Dyneema lines for trapezes and they are working fine. A couple of months of use with a little chafing over the stays but I'm keeping an eye on it. It is the stuff the kite surfers use, white with either blue or red flecks.

A couple of 12' skiffs in my area use 4mm or 5mm pre-stretch dinghy braid for trapezes without any issues.

I like rope instead of wire because it is light, easier to store/roll, and easy/cheap to replace (don't have to worry about swaging costs).

Here's an old post from the SA forums where one guy talks about people getting their fingers cut off by really thin synthetic trap lines. I wonder if this really happens. If it does, do you think a finger would float long enough so that you can swing back around and pick it up?

http://www.sailinganarchy.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35175

I just prefer wire for standing rigging, I guess just a personal preference. I leave my rigging on the boat, coiled on the tramp, and don't want to worry about UV damage.
Once initial creep is pulled out of a dyneema or spectra stay, I don't think you'd have much trouble.

Trey

For smaller boats like off the beach cats and dinghies wire is really the only option for standing riggin.

The expense and need to prevent UV damage of PBO is too restrictive at this point in time, although it has been used for fixed spinnaker pole stays effectively.

I re-read the class rules and the trap lines are in there. I guess I'll stick with the wire.

In the class rules it specifies the wire type and size, but not length. Nor does it say it has to be fabricated by PC. So as long as I use 3/32" 1x19 I'm OK to make a set of trap wires myself? I have the proper equipment at work.

I have tried synthetic rigging. It just stretches too much.

I have tried PBO, Spectra, carbon, and carbon core Spectra. I have decided I really like Dyform.

We have PRECOURT standing rigging on the F27GS and like it very much.

I've recently installed PRECOURT standing rigging on the 18Sq and although only have one sail with it, it did very well also. The Fboat has had its rigging for a couple years now, and has been sailed in some pretty icky weather.

Initially the stuff will "stretch," although it's not really stretching, the fibres are aligning. Once that alignment is accomplished, it stretches no more for all intents and purposes.

I strongly suggest using PRECOURT's stuff, for he's been in the textile rigging biz for a few years now. www.precourt.ca

and no, I have no connection other than being pleased with the product.

It's up to you what you wish to use but I think anyone not using wire for standing rigging is huffing glue. That would scare me sh*tless. Now as far as trap wires, I just go to West Marine with my old set and use their swedge tool and make my own. Cost about 20.00 if I remember correctly. I just don't trust any type of line with my safety.