Last year I overhauled my rudders by replacing the delrin screw, cams, etc., adding shims and redrilling the aft holes in the rudders. I tried using the templates for drilling but that did not solve the problem so I had to refill the holes with JB Weld several times and through trial and error was able to get them raked forward as much as possible with only about a 1/4" of movement foward/aft at the bottom of the blades.

Bill Mattson's May/June 1998 On the Wire "Raking Rudders, Correcting Helm on a Hobie 16" and David Hall's March 1997 On the Wire "Towards the "No Slop" Rudder" along with Gary Wilcox's April 1997 On the Wire "Rebuilding the Hobie Rudder Cam Assembly" articles were very useful.

Even though I have corrected the helm, slop and "break away" spring tension, the cams on my old style rudder castings will still not unlock when I lift the tiller arms (only when the bottom of the rudders are pulled back by hand or they hit bottom), maybe it would be best to upgrade them to some "newer style" used adjustable rudder castings. I may also try following the section in David Hall's article where he shows how using RTV and plastic wrap on the lower rudder casting (instead of the newer style adjuster screw 8032001) to fill the gap between the old style casting and the rudder may help push the fixed rivet/pin further into the cam so it will be seated firmly in at the base of the hook on the top of the cam.

If I replace the upper rudder casting with an adjustable upper rudder casting will I have to also replace the lower rudder casting with an adjustable lower rudder casting in order to get them to work together properly?

'82 H16
Sail #88863 Blue Prism