Here's what I use:
![[Linked Image]](http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/32254_1389140739783_1570037517_30919732_7857526_n.jpg)
The only difference with the current setup I'm using is I make an aluminum stopper instead of the UMHW one. Just like anything they do break. I used to luggage tag the sister clip on, but I think it wears better if you just splice it on there.
Like anything they need to be inspected for wear. I had one break last weekend that I knew wasn't long for this world, and I ended up swimming and losing the dog bone for my lack of action.
Don't want to be the backseat driver, but...
It looks like a Harken micro block. Harken quotes a maximum safe working load of 100kg. I guess other manufacturers have similar loads. Add some shockloading to it and it will fail...
The splices are not stitched or locked otherwise. If unloaded (e.g. if you grab the handle), they can open easily.
I use basically the clamcleat setup, but don't have the lower block. It works on the loop without block. The chock cord (not in the picture) run from the loop through a small block at the cleat back to the boat, keeping it always under tension. The adjustable line is something 6 or 8mm strong. The trapez line is 3mm covered dynema. I don't try to safe weight in the load carrying part of the trapez. It doesn't look slick too. I had never a failure with the trapez and I don't want to have it.
Cheers,
Klaus
