Comments are welcome as we'd like to see the NEATEST system on the planet with the LEAST amount of fittings. So far so good.
I'm used to the system on the Hobie Tiger, and it works pretty well. Basically, it's the same as the Agent Orange system, but without the first pair of pulleys that the jib sheet goes through (at the foot of the pole). It goes straight from the cleat to the floating block and back to the other cleat. It does mean that the sheet angles aren't perfect, but provided that you set it up well (such that the floating block is far enough down the pole) it works very well. You still get about 3:1 on the jib, which is plenty.
Paul
On my Tiger, I rotated the cheek blocks that are mounted on the spin pole about 45 degrees when I mounted them, it clears up that sheeting angle thing. Gonna have to get a picture. Used a pair of Harken 416's. You have to play a lot to find the right angle before you drill & rivet. A lot of it has to do with your jibsheet length. Mine are actually a little too close, I did that rather than accommodate buying a new longer jibsheet.
There is also no use for that Turning block that's mounted to the spinpole for the jibcar traveler adjustment. If you rotate that eyestrap 90 degrees you can lose the block completely and just use the eyestrap: West RF499 eyestrap has a stainless center ring that feeds the line without binding.
Small & light and dirt simple.
What is with the Flat plates you see holding up the ends of the jib traveler tracks on Orange and the Taipan? That blunt track end and the flat glass or aluminum supports looks like it would take a chunk out of me sooner or later.
Ouch!
Blade Track end support looks much kinder to our skin.
