I thought I had some pics with the whole thing rigged (selftacking jib and all) but I can't seem to find them (or I was just imagining things)

My strut is actually really simple and it was dirt cheap. The boys rigged it during the DCC in a very short time as well. The pics are of a few weeks after that so the boat or the setup doesn't look really tidy, but I've cleaned it up since.

The strut setup itself is just :

-1- one 35 cm 20mm by 2mm alu tube as bought at the local hardward store for 2 euro's (remember my bridles are higher !)

-2- on the bottom the tube has been flattened by a vice to allow the eyestrap to sit inside the tube. On the top a slot has been cut that slides over the bridle strop plate.

-3- on the spi pole an eyestrap is blind riveted.

-4- In the bottom part of the strut a hole is drilled through which either a retaining pin or the pin of a shackle is put. This pin sit under the eyestrap that is inside the strut when the setup is assembled as so keeps the strut to the spi pole.

-6- two dyneema 3 mm 500 kg lines run from just forward of the eyestrap/strut to the bridle wires fittings on my hulls. These keep the spi pole at the strut very accurately in place and thus prevent the jib from developping a crease. It also stabilizes the spi pole and you can now use a smaller wall thickness or diameter pole = saves weight.

-7- Currently I still use a single 3mm dyneema 500 kg line between the spi pole and bridle plate to hold the spi pole up when the jib is not fitted, But that was because I have been too lazy to tidy that up as of yet. Mind you when the jib is fitted, then the jib luff will pull the whole setup upwards and this retaining line is not necessary at all. For a while now I've been thinking of either having this line run inside of the strut or drill holes in the top of the strut and bridle plate. I'm not sure what'll do.


This total setup costed me, maybe 5 or 6 euro's in total. I'm till using it and it works fine. Only thing I would alter if I would make it new again was filling the top of the slot with some plastic rod and screw that in place that. This will cut down on the slot wearing out (deeper) over time. It has not been a real problem yet but I can see it happening and putting more tension on the stabilizing lines than I want. It will also make drilling a hole in the bridle plate and screw the strut to the bridle plate from the rear easier and better. I don't want to use a retaining pin there as the spi sail will rub and probably rip on that.

















On the subject of selftacking rails and setups, do a search on this website. I think I placed pics and stories two times before on this forum.

Good luck Dirk.

Wouter