I replaced my shrouds on my 1971 Hobie 16, and now I find it really difficult to set up my boat. I still have the shorter forestay, and I added a second chainplate to the bridle, which makes it possible to pin it together. The difficulty comes from the fact that the mast is raked back so far that it wants to fall when stepped.

Before I got my new shrouds, I found that if I parked my trailer facing downhill a little, the mast would lean far enough forward that most of the forces would be borne by the shrouds. I would tie the jib halyard to a rope, routing it through the bridle and then through my jib cam-cleat. When pulled snug, this would act as "insurance" that the mast wouldn't fall back, and I could climb down and pin the forestay. Now, however, the forces on that halyard/rope are so high that it makes me worried. Among other things, it puts a great deal of force on the jib traveler track, and I've already re-riveted that once!

I usually sail alone. Do those of you who sail alone have the same problem with the shorter shrouds and lots of mast rake? Do you worry about the mast toppling off?

Rick

Hi Rick -
Currently having a heck of a time with short shroud lines. Can't even get the mast in the cup. Didn't know something had changed with the boat design...can you enlighten me? How did you even accomplish this? Sorry to ask more questions than answers...

thanks
wade

Set the shrouds in a higher hole in the chainplates. Once the mast is stepped reset them in the lower holes. Hang on to the trap handle while the pins are out.

What ever the hassle with rigging... the boat will sail better with the mast properly raked aft.

Basic rule of thumb for rigging: The boom blocks should touch or nearly touch the traveler blocks when fully sheeted for the days sailing conditions.

History: In 1982 Hobie redesigned the mast step casting for more rake and made the shrouds shorter... forestay longer. In 1995 we went to a single part number for shrouds (17s and 16s), so the shroud wire became approx. an inch shorter. Current shrouds are 18' 11". On new boats we use an "Aussie" jib halyard system with a longer forestay which is 18' 7 1/4".

Wade, before I changed the shrouds to the newer ones, I had to replace the mast base. It does fit into the mast step casting on the front crossbar fairly well; I use the "hinge" technique, and during the raising process the hinge keeps the base aimed right at the hole in the mast step... as long as I attach the hinge properly, that is. It's labeled "top", and if I get it backwards, the ball will NOT drop into the cup.

hobie1616, your advice is exactly on the mark; thanks. I felt very nervous about disconnecting the shrouds, even when holding a trap handle, because a breeze or a moment's inattention could cause the mast to fall. So the last time I sailed, I set the shrouds to the third or fourth hole in the chainplate... and forgot that I had done so. The inch or two on each side makes a big difference during setup.

Matt, thanks for the advice. I have a new forestay waiting to be installed. It looks like I'll need to drill out the block for the jib halyard, though, and attach the forestay with a clevis pin and a cotter pin. Right? The jib block sheave seems to be assembled with stainless rivets.

I know, I know... I should just go all the way to the "Aussie" jib system. Cost is a concern, though. I'd like to keep doing this in small increments, if I can.

Rick

If rivited... it is pretty old and yes, drill and then clevis and cotter key (not ring) as that is most secure.

Even with the current standard lower forestay you need and extra 10 hole adjuster to make an easy connection (long enough).