Here are a few photos of my 5.2 that i rigged an Inter17 spin on. So far it has worked very well, it made sailing today in winds that were almost drift conditions almost interesting. Of course I am still learning how to sail the spin, but it is definently is taking the old 5.2 to the next level.
If any other 5.2 owners have questions about how to rig the boat or any other boat owners feel free to ask.
Nice setup. Think I am going to add two eyelets at the bridle to run extra lines like you have. I have them now going to the end of hoop, but I think extra set will stabilize the pole more. It wants on come off pin now.
Talking about on the pole itself. Had a new pole made from an old dingy mast. I will add some eyelets even with the bridle tangs and use a shackle and some line with a bowline to stabilize the pole more.
Re: 5.2 Spinnaker rigged!
#122121 11/05/0709:00 AM11/05/0709:00 AM
I also sailed my spinnaker for the first time this week-end on my 5.2. It took me a long time to get there: the club being closed because of foot and mouth, and the pressure of family prevented me to hit the water for months! So this week-end I finished the install and flew it for the first time.
I use an generic aluminium pole, a stealth 16 snuffer and loop, a 17.5m2 hobie spi from unknown origin (a H16 maybe? Or a FX1?). It was mostly drifting winds yesterday but I decided to sail without the jib to remove some of the lines from the tramp. Bad mistake as going upwind without a jib is slow in 1o 5 knots of wind.
Anyway, downwind was fun, and the spi worked without a hitch. Pull a line it goes up, pull the other side and it parks nicely in its bag.
* Where do you route your spi sheet? I have mine going to the bottom of the sidestay, rounding a block there, then rounding a ratchet block attached to the front beam where the jib tramp line attaches. Unfortunately the daggerboard is on the way and the sheet touches the board.
* How do you manage the sheet length and prevent it from going in the water all the time?
Re: 5.2 Spinnaker rigged!
#122122 11/05/0709:13 AM11/05/0709:13 AM
Hey Doug, if you do that, make sure that the eyelets are thru-bolted. Rivets are not strong enough and will tear out. On a similar rig I had on my old P-19, I just hog-tied a line so both tails came off the top of the pole, then used trucker's hitches to the forestay bridle tangs to set tension. This was about 4' back from the tip of the pole, and never gave a problem.
Pepin: on the I20, the spin sheet is a single line, cut so that when the kite is snuffed, the bight between the two turning blocks on the mainbeam will just touch the rear beam. There, it is passed thru a block on a long bungee which sucks the slack (most of it hehe) to the rear beam. Good luck to you both.
Yes, same single line setup here. It's one line going from the kite sheet point, to block at the sidestay, to ratchet block at the main beam, through the other ratchet block, the other sidestay block and back to the kite. But my sheet line slack between the ratchets is way longer than what you describe when snuffed, but when the kite is up I need this length to get it to the rear corner where I expect I'll be sitting/trapezing when it's windy... I have 50 feet of the damn thing, and it's crowding my tramp upwind.
My blocks are rigged just like yours only the blocks on the side stays are pretty long and give me about 1 inch of clearance from the daggerboard. If it won't hurt your angle you might try adding another shackle between the block and the stay, that would get it out further and maybe miss the board.
As for lines, my tramp can get pretty cluttered when I have all the sails up, but such is life.
Once you go cat you never go back!
Nacra 5.2 (Elsies)#1499, running an inter17 spin!