| Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: petealmquist]
#154179 09/05/08 09:57 PM 09/05/08 09:57 PM |
Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 805 Gainesville, FL 32607 USA dacarls
old hand
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old hand
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 805 Gainesville, FL 32607 USA | Much more info is required if you seriously want help.
Dacarls: A-class USA 196, USA 21, H18, H16 "Nothing that's any good works by itself. You got to make the damn thing work"- Thomas Edison
| | | Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: petealmquist]
#154180 09/05/08 10:17 PM 09/05/08 10:17 PM |
Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 6,049 Sebring, Florida. Timbo
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,049 Sebring, Florida. | I added twin traps to a Prindle 16, total cost was about $125, for the 4 wires, 4 handles, lines for all and bungie cord to hold it all together. I bought it from http://www.Murrays.com they have all the factory stuff for most cats but without knowing what you have for a boat, we can't know what length wires you need. You might also find it at the Catsailor online store here on this site, upper right corner. You can install it all yourself in about 20 minutes, free.
Last edited by Timbo; 09/05/08 10:21 PM.
Blade F16 #777
| | | Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: warbird]
#154189 09/06/08 04:15 PM 09/06/08 04:15 PM |
Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 201 Adelaide, South Australia simonp
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 201 Adelaide, South Australia | What is the advantage of the dyneema over wire? Easier to make, lighter? The one disadvantage i can see is rope is prone to tangles and nasty knots. And Steve have you ever had one of those series 20 ronstan blocks fail? I found the stainless steel strap gets bent then gets deformed. Ive never had one break on me but it completely stuffs the pulley. Might have something to do with the losds i'm putting it under! I ended up used the RF30100 http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF30100 .
Simon BLADE F16 AUS405
| | | Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: simonp]
#154191 09/07/08 12:24 AM 09/07/08 12:24 AM |
Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 1,669 Melbourne, Australia Tornado_ALIVE
Pooh-Bah
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Pooh-Bah
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,669 Melbourne, Australia | What is the advantage of the dyneema over wire? Easier to make, lighter? The one disadvantage i can see is rope is prone to tangles and nasty knots. And Steve have you ever had one of those series 20 ronstan blocks fail? I found the stainless steel strap gets bent then gets deformed. Ive never had one break on me but it completely stuffs the pulley. Might have something to do with the losds i'm putting it under! I ended up used the RF30100 http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF30100 . I have never used Dyneema for trap lines as the F18 class did not allow it, which frustrated me because I have a roll of D12. My next boat will have D12 traps. Advantages are - You can quickly make them up on the beach witout the need of a swaging tool. - Lighter than wire - Easier to roll at the end of the day then wire. - Shows wear long before they fail. Wire can go without notice at times. As for the 20 series Ronstan, I have never had them fail in that application and it is good enough for the rockstars (see above). Also use them on self tacking jibs and mast rotation. Have had them fail in spinnaker halyard applications. Like you said, the strap can bend if loaded up at a bad angle, distorting the casing and locking up the pully, quickly resulting in chewing out the pully. They are cheap though and if they show signs of distortion, just replace. | | | Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: Tornado_ALIVE]
#154192 09/07/08 12:42 AM 09/07/08 12:42 AM |
Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 201 Adelaide, South Australia simonp
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 201 Adelaide, South Australia | how long would you expect a D12 trap line to last? Do you have any special way of rolling them to avoid tangles. I'm thinking of going to this system but I can already see the mess I could get into.<img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
I've used the series 20 blocks many of places with no problems. It's just on the trap wires that they have got deformed. Must be something else I am doing wrong.
Simon BLADE F16 AUS405
| | | Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: simonp]
#154193 09/07/08 02:06 AM 09/07/08 02:06 AM |
Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4,451 West coast of Norway Rolf_Nilsen
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,451 West coast of Norway | We had our spectra trapeze lines on the boat for four years without trouble. 3mm with a nylon cover. To avoid tangles with any line, I never roll or coil them. Wires have to be rolled to avoid kinks and problems but I prefer to fold my lines and tie them off. By folding the line is not twisted like it would be if coiled. Folding is faster and takes less time than rolling in my experience <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Make the folds short enough for the line diameter, and it should come out of storage agan really well. Here is one example on how to do it: http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/2116049/butterflycoil-main_Full.jpg | | | Re: want to build a trapeze
[Re: simonp]
#154197 09/07/08 05:06 AM 09/07/08 05:06 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 9,582 North-West Europe Wouter
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,582 North-West Europe |
The traplines can even be made simpler.
I do advice using a bead instead of that figure 8 plastic thingy. The latter seems to do really well in eating through the line.
For 7 years now I use 3 mm dyneema line where I have made loops using a double figure 8 knot, Rock climbers know what I mean here. Personally I use a plastic thimble in the top loop where I tighten the loop in the line by stitching, however friends of mine have used only the line loop for long times without problems. At the bottom I put the line through the handle of secure it into place using a figure 8 knot or even better a blood knot (figure 8 with an extra rotation of the line around the line). Then at the very bottom another double figure 8 loop. This loop is permanent and it is secured to a stainless steel ring or shackle using a fishermans hitch. This knot can be tied and undone without fiddling with the line. Just move the line loop through the eye and cross it back over the eye itself. Dissassembly is in reverse. The fact that the bungee and the running line with dogbone is later attached makes becoming undo impossible and acts as extra security.
The ring or shackle replaces the ball bearing block and works just as well if not better as they don't bend out of shape or wear out. By careful to use shackles with circular sides and no lefts over barbs. Tie the dogbone to one end of the running line (fisherhitch again) and run the line through the ring or shackle. Tie a loop in the other end after you have slid the bead on the line. A sheet bend is the right not here (if that is the correct English name). This loop can easily be adjusted thus repositioning the bead for the right height of the trapeze. The loop itself can then be hooked by the bungee using a plastic hook. For quick trap height adjustement use the two rings of the dogbone.
This setup is by far the most inexpensive and most easy to make and will last for years. My 3 mm 500 kg break dyneema lines have so far survived 4 years of sailing and open air storage at the beach for 6 months each season. I weight close to 90 kg and sail in rough seas often.
Component list :
3 mm / 500 kg garanteed dyneema line A plastic thimble (if so desired but can be doen without) A plastic handle A stainless steel ring of small diameter or a smooth small shackle A short piece of 5 mm abbresive resistant dyneema line A dogbone A plastic bead large enough to not pass through the ring/shackel A plastic hook Bungee cord (I use 4 mm max as the dyneema trap lines are so light that they don't need a large retaining force) Needle and thread if you want to stitch the thimble in tight.
Good luck
Wouter
Wouter Hijink Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild) The Netherlands
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