you're right. forgot about the prep step before bogging again.

I like the plumber chalk idea.

Talc is not recommended from what I've read, although used by some people. Some one guessed it water adsorbs in the talc. I have a white sheet on faring material from my NA and what he uses. I suppose chalk would work but that seems messy. The pencil is pretty easy and works well for me and does not make a mess. I cut it with a safety blade and expose about 3/8 of the tip and only have to sharpen it once while marking out the hull pretty easy and simple no mess. It would seem the chalk would move around as you sand. You could use glass balloons or bubbles not sure about the load surface or water absorption. I like the bond that the bog with 407 gives and it not that bad to sand. I like the West Products because they have cans of different powders that I can easily grab for specific bogs. I know that they work with West have a proven track record.

Besides the exact materials used and method at least this gives you an idea of how I bog and fare out a surface. From here you can use materials that you feel comfortable working with and develop your own method.

No matter what it’s 1/7 material 6/7 elbow grease!
Sand with a smile!

Cheap can of lacquer instead of chalk or pencil. Black lacquer based auto primer should work. Just dust on a light coat. Sand away, read the contours.

No problem I have not worked with the H-80. I bought a sheeet of 1/2 for the bulkheads but not that far along yet. I started with the tube of west - easy too expensive, then I used 410 bog, 407 bog, then just straight epoxy. All the Farrier guys are using gorilla glue (gg) now. I'm going to check back with West, Ian Farrier, my NA, and DIAB about GG plus do a test panel. With the Cove & Bead most of the glue surface is hidden anyway.

Pete don't think that has not crossed my mind.
I'm worried about mixing lacquer and epoxy on the surface, especially multiple times, and the effect of thinner on the foam. Sometimes I think being a “simple man” is a way to hedge my bets with several thousands of dollars in material and god knows how much time. I’d hate to have any lifting or compromise a secondary bond.

No disrespect intended to the West Systems products, but their fillers are very expensive and identical to the stuff you can get elsewhere in bulk. 2oz of West 410 (microlight), which I believe are the white glass micro balloons, is $16. You can get FIVE QUARTS (160 ounces) of the 3M brand glass microballoons for $9.75. Same with the phenolic microballoons (the redish medium weight filler), and cabosil (the fumed silica).

http://www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html

You're a step ahead of me. . . as usual!

Jake
410 microlight is a thickener without microballoons to give a really lightweight filler.
It spooky stuff, it almost binds together when squeezed in the hand BEFORE any resin is added. So it needs very little resin in the mix.
It actually floats when cured.

I think that it is worth the money and better to keep with one manufacturer when doing a big project. Any advice or warranty would be void if you start mixing and matching.

Either way, I can't believe how much filler Man-shed is using on his foam, you only need to fill the joints because filling and fairing will be necessary after glassing anyhow.

Just a check on input points well taken.

West Systems and other builders do not recommend using 410 as a laminate. I’ve used 410 as a filler before and it does sand easier I also can put my fingernail into the finished work. A study will show that 410 used topside over glass will “bruise” such as rope burns so you may want to consider where to use it as a filler. I purchased a 15lb box of 407 at my discount, which is a considerable savings then compare that over the medium or large can single can price. If I account for my free time available for shopping, which is also money - I feel Ok with what I have. If I shopped it out I’m sure I could save maybe up to $100 if figure my time was worth it. One method to my madness is buying most of my products from one source, which leads to, larger over all discounts. I get 50% off the foam, paint, sandpaper, and other marine supplies so I like to keep my account active. So what I would save on faring compound I easily save on just one sheet of foam or roll of DA pads. In the big picture it is a bust for convenience and over all savings of my total supplies.

Once the faring is complete there will not be as much filler on the boat after sanding with the long board, but you are correct it more then I’d like. Very little faring will be needed after glassing that is why I’m fairing now. Two layers of 198-gram carbon (6.9oz) cloth make up the outer skin, not much if anything to fare before you compromise the strength of the lay-up. More care will be taken in the next side to check for farness before foaming, and a softer glue to allow better shaping of the foam.

To give you an idea on a female production mold the foam usually has horizontal and vertical scores cut about ½ way through it. It comes as a sheet of foam it also has small holes machined through it to pull the resin and vacuum through it. The resin/epoxy/bog saturates all of the holes in the foam. The bedding layer of bog is a layer that sits between the skin and foam “flat” and “upward” to fill the score cuts in the foam that expand as it contours to the curvature of the mold. Comparative to that method I’m probably not using more bog and the foam I’m using is much thicker.

Could there be less bog – ideally and as I learn I certainly hope so. I had a dilemma at one point less farness, and who would really know, or to make it fare as possible with what I had just incase I decide to pop a mold. I can go up to many production boats and even exotic cars and “side view” them and see flaws, wiggles, and wows. I did that recently with a 25-35 foot sized production multihull (this way I’m not picking on them) and I was amazed and by the workmanship it was like rollers on the beach. But most people don’t ”angle” like that perhaps it is a sickness.

Thanks for the comments,

Mike

Second thought would be to cut the frames again = but that won't happen! Part of the what I've read said don't worry get it close you can fare it out later.