in the end, there is no specific height to put it unless you want it at "stock" height which is a generic place (and more in position to hoist when standing IMO)
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: PTP]
#227893 01/31/1108:11 PM01/31/1108:11 PM
Pete, the only problem with the cleat on the mast is that you will have to come forward to the mast to cleat it. That is a long way from the tiller. Also it is not the best pace to be in strong winds. Basically you will have the spin all the way up, no tiller and you will be at the front of the bus. The cleat on the beam allows you to hoist from the rear corner which is where you will probably be after A mark/offset.
Chris Trident F16
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: Cab]
#227984 02/01/1104:24 PM02/01/1104:24 PM
Pete, I have that same block/clete on my boat, but make sure you mount it upside down (from that picture), so when you pull down it will unclete, vs. pulling up to unclete.
Blade F16 #777
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: Timbo]
#227998 02/01/1106:42 PM02/01/1106:42 PM
get the cleat with aluminum teeth. You will wear through the plastic really quickly. This happened when I had a cleat like that on my 6.0. You essentially grind away the plastic pull up the spin.
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: pgp]
#228006 02/01/1107:06 PM02/01/1107:06 PM
I am not completely familiar with the system but I think that from the cleat you run the line down to a block on the beam. It is easy to un cleat but you must move forward to cleat it.
Chris Trident F16
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: Cab]
#228007 02/01/1107:10 PM02/01/1107:10 PM
This cleat should lock with just a quick upward flick of the wrist, if I get the angle right. The problem is much like getting the cleating angle right for he main blocks. I think...
Pete Pollard Blade 702
'When you have a lot of things to do, it's best to get your nap out of the way first.
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: pgp]
#228009 02/01/1107:39 PM02/01/1107:39 PM
Pete, I will measure mine tomorrow and let you know, but from experience, it's just a little higher than my shoulders when kneeling at mid tramp.
You can hoist from either tack if you then run it to the back, but it's much easier and quicker if you always set on starboard, as you should when going left around A mark anyway.
For the drop you only need to yank it hard once, to get it out of the clete, on either gybe, even way at the back of the tramp, then start pulling the snuffer line like a madman. Quick hands is the solution.
But you will need two hands to get it in fast, so...who's driving?
That's why quicker is better and a little earlier drop at the gate is better than later, so you can then get all set up for upwind, (boards, cunningham, rotator) hook in and get out on the wire as you round.
Blade F16 #777
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: PTP]
#228035 02/02/1102:41 AM02/02/1102:41 AM
get the cleat with aluminum teeth. You will wear through the plastic really quickly. This happened when I had a cleat like that on my 6.0. You essentially grind away the plastic pull up the spin.
Run a soft outer casing on your halyard for single cleat, or double cleat if it is a hard outer casing. If you are one up, I would not mount the cleat on the mast. Mount the cleat on the front beam and run the halyard through a pully on the tramp, hoisting from behind the pully.
T-A is right. When going uni, the cleat should be on the beam. Up on the mast is for 2 up sailing. All you will do is invite a spectacular crash and a huge insurance claim minding that you didn't hurt someone. I thought I would add to this thread with my vastly small uni/spin experience.
Take care, BC
"The election is over, the talking is done, Your party lost, my party won. So let us be friends, let arguments pass, I’ll hug my elephant, you kiss you’re a $$.” Liberalism = A brain eating amoeba & a failed political ideology of the 20th century!
I have removed all the 2-up apparatus on my boat. I am happy with it that way. forces me to be my own man. besides, need some epoxy work to put it back on!!!
Has anyone ever played with furlers on single handers? It occurs to me that with a furler and a modified retrieval setup. You could hoist the kite as you approach the mark (from Trap with little load), and simply grab the sheet and pull on it after bearing away, effectively allowing a set as fast as the 2 man boats. At the bottom mark you would furl the kite (again quicker and easier than dropping) get around the mark, get the boat going then drop the furled sail (similar to what you see on the big boats but with some form of retrieval rope). It would take some thought and setup but if you got it right you could eliminate the biggest hole in single handed performance.
Will a modern spi furl well? When I looked at this way back furling was an issue. Perhaps there have been developments, or do we still have to compromise on luff shape and shoulder to make it furl?
I like the snails, but would that really be faster than a regular snuffer?
Hi Rolf,
I think there are two problems: The first is the mid-girth rule. If you want to have a furling sail, you have the leading edge more straight and than the rule makes the trailing edge too curved to get enough tension on it to get a good shape. The other "problem" is that a furling sail will have a flatter cut, but I am not sure if this is really a drawback, especially if you save 5 s during hoisting and taking down. For me, the real development stopper is the mid-girth rule. Remove it and after a couple of years we will see much better down wind sails.
Cheers,
Klaus
Re: Uni spin hoist
[Re: DanTnz]
#228146 02/04/1103:53 AM02/04/1103:53 AM
Check out this review of 3 single handers in Y&Y UK, thing to look for is not the cat but the RS700, read the 'off the wind' system. You'll see it has a 'pump' system to raise the spin one handed. Anyone at a UK club seen this up close? A friend of mine had a 700 when I last lived in UK, but I never bothered to check this system out.
My concern would be how quick you could get the spin down with the halyard under enough bungy tension to make the system work. It's tempting to try it out, in my case I think I can get a lot better at the two line system before I start changing things too much.
I prefer two line oover one line as the split drop gives you steering window without the risk of running over the kite and you can set up for the hoist before you round the mark.
On non trapezing single hander dinghies with spi, I used to put the tiller extension in the hollow of the knee to helm the boat or simply step on it to fix it. Of course on a cat with its long tiller extension it is not possible, but maybe a device to fix the tiller could already help. By the way my boat will not luff, if the traveller is dropped. Hence the boat runs straight on a deep course.
Come in on your knees. Place tiller extension behind your knees (sitting on it, between calfs and hamies). When you rock from side to side on your knees, you can steer the boat, using 2 hands to set and drop.
There's an idea.
