| Re: upgrades for 16
[Re: mmadge]
#27105 12/25/03 09:41 AM 12/25/03 09:41 AM |
Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 170 Australia Jules_topcat
member
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member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 170 Australia | Wel i owned an 1986 boat and i now own a new hobie 16. The jib cars are a great idea. The hobie 16 race rudders are great and they dont need a hobie 20 set up on them not at all. Im only 17 and the difference between the new boats isn't very much if you own a good hobie 16 but its a speed and is alot easyer to use.
Jules_topcat
| | | Re: upgrades for 16
[Re: carumba_16]
#27107 02/28/04 08:27 AM 02/28/04 08:27 AM |
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 1,884 Detroit, MI mbounds
Pooh-Bah
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Pooh-Bah
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,884 Detroit, MI | I've had both versions of the jib sheet systems; there are advantages and disadvantages to both:
Cleat on the traveler: PRO 1) Simpler 2) Doesn't require you to sheet out as much when you move the traveller 3) No cleat on the crossbar in the crew's face or in the way when the crew takes a header over the crossbar during a pitchpole.
CON 1) Sheeting angle changes as you travel out. Makes it hard to uncleat from the wire when travelled out. 2) On older boats (w/o integrated tracks), sits up a little higher, so you can't sheet in as tight (affects mast rake)
Cleat on the crossbar: PRO: 1) Low stack height, more potential mast rake 2) Consistent cleating angle - easier to uncleat
CON: 1) Requires more sheet; sheet must run out as you travel out 2) Cleat on the crossbar will take out chunks of flesh if you pitchpole and slide forward off the boat. 3) More complex; more inherent friction.
It boils down to personal preference. For an older boat, I would tend to go with cleats on the crossbar so I could reduce the stack height. Mast rake has more effect on speed than almost anything else, especially in heavy air.
Rudders: EPO's are the best, but good ones are very hard to find now. I've got the Hobie race rudders on my boat & I've got no serious complaints other than the gelcoat finish is soft compared to the rock hard finish on the EPO. Every rudder I've ever had on a 16 (PVC, Lexan, EPO, fiberglass) have required "finish work" to clean up the leading and trailing edges. The leading edge needs to be round and smooth; the trailing edge needs a 1/16" squared off edge to prevent humming and flow separation. I also wet sand the entire blade to get rid of the mold release wax and promote flow adhesion. | | | Re: upgrades for 16
[Re: carumba_16]
#27110 03/01/04 12:35 PM 03/01/04 12:35 PM |
Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 251 beaufort, sc dannyb9
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enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 251 beaufort, sc | what about 'glassing plastic rudders- is this feasible? we used to do (wood)sunfish rudders to make them bigger and stiffer, it was legal as a method of 'refinishing'. would the epoxy/glass (or carbon) adhere?
marsh hawk
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