Where can you throw away a boat? I figure ill keep parts to sell online, but what about the hulls? Do dumps take them?
Thanks,
E

Landfills will take them. I've heard tale of people going to the length of chopping them up into pieces and discarding them periodically with the curb side trash service.

landfills will take them, but if they are whole then they will likely charge you a bulldozer charge, its around $100 in this area. So when I throuhg away and old power boat that I needed the trailer from I used a sawzall to cut it into pices, load it into the back of my truck, then i was able to drive it out to the landfill and dump it for the normal $10 fee. A sawzall will make VERY short work of a catamaran hull, so this is deffinately worth it in my book.

Incedentily, what type of boat are you parting?

I dispose of several boats a year and have different ways to do so. If I have several hulls, I just cut them in half and put them in the back of the truck to take to the landfill. Having an 8 foot bed helps. If it is a slow month and I only have a hull or two, I cut them up and put them in the trash can. Just for future reference, you can put an entire Hobie 16 hull in one trash can if you cut it up right.

I got a trailer a while ago that was in REALLY bad shape, so I needed to get rid of it. I also had hulls for 2 Hobie 16s, a 14, A Solcat 18 and a P16 that I had to dispose of. I strapped them all to the trailer, drove to the landfill, unhooked it and drove off. Man, it was pretty cool seeing the bull dozer run over the whole thing!!

One thing I do when I get rid of hulls is to keep the tips of the bows. I plan on making trophies out of them some time, but just can't seem to get around to it. I have a STACK of bow tips!

ut them into 3 ft sections and make tables out of them. Sell them on EBay and make your small fortune from us cat crazy suckers.
Im serious.

I know where a nice G-Cat 5.0 with Calvert sq top and jib are. Nice boat with all the go fast features. I also saw those hulls I have been telling you about. I dont think they are going to do you any good. Ill keep looking
Dave Mosley

Dave,
you are awesome. Thanks a ton for the rigging guide. I tried to email you, but it didnt work. PM your email stuff and ill give you a long thank you there.

Thanks a ton, i bet its fun cutting the boat up! But sad too

Its a G-Cat 5.0 i got from a non sailor, that needs basically everything. I finally found shrouding and stuff, but it looks like that will be around $500 with traps, and then i need all new blocks, and more misc parts for the the thing. And i need to replace all the board things on top of the hull cause they are super soft. I think they just lost a bag of parts when they sold it to me. Even once i spent all that money It would still be a sketcy boat with soft wierdly patched holes and a HUGE dent in the mast.

At least i can drive around with a nice trailer behind my car and look like my cat is out sailing.

ha
E

PS I used this icon cause i have no idea what it is.

While a sawsall will work, a much easier way to cut it up is to use a circular saw with a masonry blade...I doubt if you will use more than one blade. Masonry blades wear down as you cut but are very cheap and they don't dull but keep cutting surface fresh throughout there life, that is until the diameter is too small to be useful. Most standard sawsall blades will dull out in a couple feet.

A masonry blade in a circular saw will go thru the boat hull like butter...I have cut up power boat hull like this with a thickness of over 3/4" solid glass.

Regards,
Bob

Shoot I'd pull out my trusty Stihl Chainsaw and go to town. Please wear proper eye protection. A chainsaw will make short work of a hull.

Mike Hill

Chainsaws work extremely well, but you get little pieces of fiberglass EVERYWHERE. Believe me, I cut up a boat with a chainsaw and couldn't sleep for 3 days with all that fiberglass in my skin!

I use a sawsall with a long blade for cutting wood.

I'm sure you know, but if you use a chainsaw stay well away from any metal parts. Any of the stainless shroud ancors would cause a big kick-back or a chain break.

Wait a second- "the board things on top of the hull..."? You have a GCat 5.0 Mk I with the one-piece hulls and plywood decks? If the fiberglass is in good shape, there is nothing wrong with those hulls. The plywood just bolts into the fiberglass with some bedding compound to seal it up.

Where is the dent in the mast? You can replace the mast with one from a H16 -just swap your base onto the "new" mast. How could it possibly cost you $500 for new standing rigging (including trapeze wires)? If there is a West Marine nearby you can easily swage all your own wires.

Use a very fine metal cutting blade - I used a skill saw with a wood blade and it died after about 12". I saw somewhere that someone made a diamond blade (very similar to a concrete blade) for a skill saw expressly for cutting fiberglass....while I don't think it's worth the price for this one project, I thought it worth mentioning. Fiberglass is tough stuff to cut!

Jake...if you use a masonry blade, it has no teeth...Think of it is like a thin abrasive wheel...it doesn't get dull...it just looses diameter. They are only a couple dollars apiece. The circular saw blades for cutting metal also work.

Regards,
Bob

Or, you could gently place it IN THE PATH OF A SPEEDING POWER BOAT! That will get things going in the right direction for ya....

This is what im talking about with the hull.

Is it really soft in that spot? It doesn't look like much of a problem to me. Mine has some crazing and nicks/dings too but still works great.

But hey... if you're getting rid of the boat I'd be interested in some parts and stuff from it. Especially the cross-beams

syco,
the soft spot is on the top.
My problem is this: This is my first cat. I dont really know how things are supposed to be. It hasnt really helped that this cat is missing a load of stuff. Ha. I talked to a few people about replacing the rigging and noone could tell me what to do. Thats one of the reasons im so glad i found this place! You guys (in the gender non-specific way) are such a great help.
I heard a couple times to go to west marine, but I cant find the lengths for the things i need. Thats a big problem. I called a few Cat dealers around here too, and ne of the places I called about the rigging finally tracked down the lengths. And they quoted me about $60-75 for each peice of wire. Plus trap lines. And I still need blocks.
He is the only person i know that has the lengths but it seems really expensive for me, and id feel weird asking him for the lengths so i can go make them at westmarine. Know what I mean?
On top of all of this, I live in an apartment and dont really have anywhere to keep the boat at home, so i keep it at my dads lake house (i want to teach my brother and sister to sail) which is 5 hours away, and the deal i have with him is i have to get it sailing or take it away!
Its coming down to the wire (pun intended) and I just dont know what to do!

I just want to go sailing

Eddie

Why don't you contact Hans Geissler, the designer and builder of the G-Cats? Even though he is not actively building new boats right now, he told me he has lots of parts. And, of course, he should be able to give you the lengths and dimensions of everything you need to replace.

His website is at http://www.geocities.com/g_catmultihulls/misc/maytheforcebewithyou.html
You can find further contact information there.

Eddy- I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the (whole) top of the hull. I'm curious to find out if you have a Mk I hull or a Mk II hull. The MK Is are very hard to find, and the lack of a deck-lip makes them much more pleasant to trapeze from.

Also, my advice on going to West Marine was to make your own wires for less money than you can order them. If you have the lengths of the wires (eye-to-eye length), you can just make your own as close as possible, right in the store. It's not hard to do at all, and the employees would probably even show you how to do it.

You could even use "rope". I'm not sure that it would be cheaper or easier, but there is line out now that is strong and low-stretch enough to be used as standing rigging. Vectran or Technora or something like that.... but you'd have to learn to do eye-splices with it. A big plus is that its much lighter than the wires it would replace.

I think this pic may help.

Mary,
Ive tried to get in touch with Hans for the lengths for litterally months. Ive talked to a few people, and he seems to be all over the place. BUT, he is someone who has the info i need, so ill keep trying. Thank you.

I WANNA GO SAILING SO BAD!


E