You guys are all forgetting that most mast need to be turned 90 degrees on most boats. I think the spreaders and diamond wires would get in the way.

David your right and that was another point I wanted to make after looking at Jack's set up. I don't think your going to let the small contact point of a roller pressure the side of your mast. With the other system you could use a contoured pad on the end of the lever. It would work with the mast 90'.

The boat I saw this system on was a G-cat 5.7 and that mast has spreaders.

Thanks Carl and Les. I'm gonna try the idea of attaching the trap wire to the front beam. I'll tie down the mast base just to be safe.

-Rob V.
Panama City
Nacra 5.2

I used the solo right for many years with my H21 without any problems. Don't try to re-invent or make cheap short cuts, it will cost you more in the long run.

Currently I just use a winch to raise the mast on the ARC 21. I don't do it solo but if I could train the dog to wind the winch I would be ok. I attach the winch to the spinnaker halyard because it is above the main hound and gives me great leverage and leaves the forestay free to be attached.

What I don't understand is that everyone talks about how the masts have gotten lighter but its seems they are harder to put up. I know I'm older than the average sailor (well I'm over 40) but I've always hopped up on the boat and just stood up the mast and attached the forestay. OK, if you are by your self, set the boat on the ground with the bows in a slight down angle so when the mast is in place it will lean forward and tend to stay up. If there is a breeze then orient the bows downwind. The breeze will help to lift the mast (not hinder you) and will assist in keeping it in place. If you are still concerned about it falling, tie a line to the forestay and loop it under the bridle wires and tie it off to the raised mast. You hop down and attach the forestay to the bridle.

You youngsters just need to get in shape. BTW, no I didn't sail a H14 with a little bitty mast. It was an old TheMightyHobie18 for 15 years then a H20 after that. Unfortunately I can't do that with my Stiletto but it is set up with a gin pole to raise the mast.

Wow is it getting hot in here... I see flames on the horizon. I have my sunblock, I mean flameblock on.

Clayton
S27, H16

The average catamaran sailor IS over 40. And all of them have bad backs from trying to raise their masts without mechanical assistance.

Crap thats us!!! OK, lets see... yeah what the others said, get a winch... or just young crew. Yea, thats it, young crew.

You know as we get older we ramble too.

Clayton

Mary,

You are wrong. I had my bad back long before I got my Hobie.

Howard

Over 40
Back in good condition
Keep the tips rollin'

25 here

already on painkillers

Post deleted by catman

try again

cross my fingers

last one

I hate to do this ....resurrecting an old post, but Mike can you tell me what the materials you used and the lengths used for this contraption ? It looks just to good to not try it out. The thing I'm trying to keep in mind in design is that my Nacra mast has to remain on it's side and how the contraption affects/ or is affected, by the diamond wires.
Thanks
Greg

ok, not sure how long the line would have to be, but how about this?

Take a piece of line say 25' with a double block on one end, run the loose end through something high on the mast, for a h16 you could use a shackle or the jib block, and cleat it off at the base of the mast, now, take a double block with a becket and attach it to the bridle wire. Tie one end of a much longer line to the becket than through the block on the first line, back through the lower block back to the upper block and back through the bottom block this would give you a 5:1 you could set this up in as high a ratio as you needed, than run the loose end back over the tramp, take up the slack as you walk the mast up. when the mast is stepped, undo the cleated end of the first line and the block on the bridle and your done.

Just a thought
Sam

Greg,
It's not my contraption. Just something I saw on the beach. However I think you can guesstamate the lengths. The best way might be to pin your mast and determine the lenght from the back of the boat to you spreaders as the chock would need to start below them. You also have to account for clearance at the back of the boat so the arm would be able to swing down without anything in the way.

Remember this thing gets it about half way up. It doesen't put it all the way up. Half isn't bad though. And the last and most important thing is the boat is backwards on the trailer.

I believe the G cat's mast is raised at 90' also. It would most likely stay that way easier (larger flat surface). Of course if you make the chock a little wider and flat it should want to lay at 90.

One other thing about it is the plate's that make up the piviot. Notice it prevents side motion at all points, down,up and on the way up. Very important!

I've seen this rig only once. If he comes out again I'll talk with him about it. Don't hold you breath though.

The lever is a wonderful thing.

I have a pretty sturdy mast support and a winch attached to it, up high I have a heavy eye bolt and a single block that the winch rope runs over. I hook the winch to the forestay and use the jib lines to attach to the side stays to stablize the mast side to side and have a short length of rope that I tie the mast down to the support using the downhaul assy. I just crank it up with the winch. so far its working good on my solcat 18.

instead of attaching the winch line to the forestay attach it to the trap wires. That way you can leave the winch line attached and locked when you get the mast raised. This makes it a piece of cake to attach the forestay to the bridle wires.

Alec

If you have a double trap on your boat this will work. I like to use one set of trap wires to stabalize the mast when it is below 45 deg with the trap wires while solo stepping.