Announcements
New Discussions
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Hop To
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4
solcat 18 traps #70641
03/29/06 01:58 AM
03/29/06 01:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
AzCat Offline OP
enthusiast
AzCat  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
I started sailing on a hobie 16 20 years ago and havent sailed for at least 12 years. Just aquired a solcat 18 that I am rebuilding as it was in pretty rough shape and I have some questions for anyone that can help.
1)The wheels that the bungees run over that flip up the rudders are shot and I need to remove the pin that holds them in to replace them. How do I remove the pin?
2)I have ordered a new tramp from saltydog and would like to know how traps should be set up. Does the tramp need anything special installed at the factory?
3) Do I need to pull the end caps from the frame to install the new tramp? I cant get whats left of the old tramp out of the track without pulling the caps it seems. If so, do I need to drill out the rivets in the crossbeam and/or pull the mounting bolt?
4)I will be using a righting bag but have never used one before. Where is the best place to attach it, what size line,blocks,lengths, other particulars.
5)I have set my trailer with a winch set high on the mast dolly. when singlehandedly stepping the mast the side stays are slack so the mast can swing to the side. I experimented a little and ended up using the jib sheet attached to the sidestays to pull them tight and thus keep the mast centered. Is thisn right or is nthere a better way?
6) Foot straps. It seems like a great idea, but I dont want to get them in the wrong positions. Anyone have them and if so, measured positions? I read the thread but it is on a hobis 16- mine is a solcat 18.
7) The daggerboards seem like they will push right through the hulls. Just push them down flush and forget? Also, I have read the term " dolphin striker". Does this refer to the daggerboards?
8) I liked the rudder/tiller setup on the Hobie 16. Will this, or a similar setup bolt up to my solcat?

Thank you in advance for the hours of your precious time that you all will be devoting to ansewering these questons.I hope that I wont be the only one to benifit from your timely responce.


Auscat MKV 444 A class
NACRA I-20- 440/CATHATKA
-- Have You Seen This? --
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70642
03/29/06 06:46 AM
03/29/06 06:46 AM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,348
F
fin. Offline
Carpal Tunnel
fin.  Offline
Carpal Tunnel
F

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,348
I know nothing about Solcats.

However, the "dolphin striker" keeps the forward crossbar from breaking. It is the rod and cable mechanism located directly under the mast step. The rod is probably attached to the mast step.

I don't use anything to help raise the mast, just "muscle". But, I'm short and stocky. I've seen taller guys who are obviously stronger, struggle a bit because they can't get under the mast. I saw a guy put a light bungee around the shrouds, but can't say that I recommend it. The safest way would be to get help raising and lowering, lots of guys do it.


Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: fin.] #70643
03/29/06 08:04 AM
03/29/06 08:04 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 351
Santiago, Chile
Andinista Offline
enthusiast
Andinista  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 351
Santiago, Chile

To keep the mast straight you can attach the trapeze wires to both ends of the cross beam (I don´t know the solcat but I think it should work)

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70644
03/29/06 10:07 AM
03/29/06 10:07 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 349
Fort Loramie, Ohio
jmhoying Offline
enthusiast
jmhoying  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 349
Fort Loramie, Ohio
Like the other poster mentioned, connecting the trapeze wires to the front corner castings is the best way to prevent the mast from swinging side to side while raising it. Here's a photo of my P18 mast going up.
[Linked Image]
Another photo - http://www.pbase.com/jmhoying/image/38984007
Good luck with your new boat.
Jack


Jack Hoying Fort Loramie, Ohio
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70645
03/30/06 01:15 AM
03/30/06 01:15 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
AzCat Offline OP
enthusiast
AzCat  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
Also, I have noticed that most of the 18' and up cats have diamond wires on the mast. Mine is an older cat and dosnt have this. Is it a good idean to have this? If so can I just order one for a hobie or nacra off salty dog ind it will work? I dont see one for a solcat 18 on their website.

HEY, IS THERE ANYONE IN ARIZONA WITH A CAT THAT I CAN RUN WITH? Im in Glendale.

When I had a Hobie 16 I put the mast up singlehanded a few times by lugging it into place by hand, dont want to do that any more, it hurts. I am more into easy these days.
The winch does the lifting just fine, I just need to keep the mast strait. The jib sheets worked ok but maby there is a better way. Thanks for the input.

Last edited by azcat; 03/30/06 01:24 AM.

Auscat MKV 444 A class
NACRA I-20- 440/CATHATKA
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70646
03/30/06 01:18 AM
03/30/06 01:18 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,921
Michigan
PTP Offline
Carpal Tunnel
PTP  Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,921
Michigan
if there were no diamond wires originally, I am not sure of any reason why you would have to add them.

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70647
03/30/06 12:09 PM
03/30/06 12:09 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 40
Mesa, AZ
basketcase Offline
newbie
basketcase  Offline
newbie

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 40
Mesa, AZ
Quote
HEY, IS THERE ANYONE IN ARIZONA WITH A CAT THAT I CAN RUN WITH? Im in Glendale.


Just your luck. Check out www.fleet42.com AND www.azcatsailor.com AND www.fleet66.com (hobie fleet). There is a fun sailing weekend next weekend at Lake Roosevelt. The fleet is going to Rocky Point towards the end of April also.

About the solcat 18. I used to own one here in the valley. It was white, with red and black sails. I thought there was a blue one floating around the valley too. I never did get the trap wires hooked up on that boat though, so I cant help you there. I dont think you need to removed the end caps to get the tramp off. I think if you look at the endcaps, they should have a groove in them to get the tramp off. It might only be on one side. Maybe bring the boat next weekend to the lake, even if it is not ready for sailing. I dont know if I will be there, but there will be plenty of people with the knowledge to help you out, give you some ideas, and get you going in the right direction.

Jonathan Grant
Mesa, AZ
boatless

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70648
03/31/06 01:51 AM
03/31/06 01:51 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
ReefedOne Offline
journeyman
ReefedOne  Offline
journeyman

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
azcat, sounds like the locals are ready to help, if you can trailer the "patient" (or parts of it) out to the lake. Kudos for cat spirit!

I don't know the SolCat at all, but I do have a cool sales poster from them, early 1980s vintage. They have pretty distinctive looking hulls, and someday I will take a trip to see one:

http://www.boatlinks.com/image.asp?ObjectID=10181

Is Sol Cat the one where the tiller crossbar is in FRONT of the mainsheet blocks, so you don't have to throw the hiking stick 'round the back of the boat when tacking and jibing?... or was that the G-cat????

But Solcat has a flush-mounted tramp similar to the Prindles I've had, so I'll try and help you out....

Quote

1)The wheels that the bungees run over that flip up the rudders are shot and I need to remove the pin that holds them in to replace them. How do I remove the pin?

Not sure... are the ENDS of the sheave pins visible/accessible? If like the Prindle, you may have to remove the sub-assembly from the rudder castings in order to access/change the sheaves (roller wheels). Probably there is no drilling or torching involved, maybe just a centerpunch and small hammer.

2)I have ordered a new tramp from saltydog and would like to know how traps should be set up. Does the tramp need anything special installed at the factory?

Out near the side edges of the tramp, up near the shrouds (side stays), Prindles have grommeted holes for the trapeze shock cords to ride through. One pair of holes (for the skipper) is approx. 6-8 inches behind the shrouds, the other pair (for the crew) is about 6-8 inches in front of shrouds. Do you see something like this on your OLD tramp? If saltydog knows the SolCat, they probably know to do this... but hey, why not call and MAKE SURE!?!? ;')

On the Prindle, just outboard of these grommets, you tie on a small "block" (pulley) for the shock cords to ride through. (Go to www.performancecat.com and download the Prindle 15/16/18 Owner's manual for pics.)

3) Do I need to pull the end caps from the frame to install the new tramp? I cant get whats left of the old tramp out of the track without pulling the caps it seems. If so, do I need to drill out the rivets in the crossbeam and/or pull the mounting bolt?

As stated by the previous poster, I'd be VERY surprised if such major surgery was required to swap out the tramp. As he said, if one end is blocked, check the other end. If BOTH ends appear blocked, then perhaps there's a "feed slot" towards one end or the other, i.e. a short stretch where the curf (groove) gets wider, as on the mast where you feed in the luff of the mainsail...? Also look UNDERNEATH for some feature of the crossbars that leads to tramp removal... removable plate?... can't believe there'd be riveting involved.


4)I will be using a righting bag but have never used one before. Where is the best place to attach it, what size line,blocks,lengths, other particulars.

On Prindles, there's a grommet dead center on the tramp, just aft of the mast. They say to drop the righting line through there, and just tie a figure-8, and let it pull on the tramp. I've never liked putting that much stress on the tramp, so after passing it thru that grommet, I tied it off to the center post of the dolphin striker, which is a strong structural member.

As for line, a length of beefy old mainsheet that's too fuzzy to run through the blocks works great. I wouldn't go smaller than 3/8". That cheap poly ski rope that comes with the Murray's basic bucket ain't worth shyt! It will decay in no time. Length will have to be at least 13-15' to go up, over, and reach the water. In time you will find the magic spot to tie a loop for your hand-hold, and maybe another loop for your trap harness hook.

You take up the slack by hoisting the bag over your shoulder, and running the slack under your harness hook... then just lean back as when trapezing... if bows are into wind, wind will get under sail, and boat will roll back up... slowly at first, until sail clears water, then SCHWING!

Hopefully SaltyDog included a big pocket on the tramp to stash your righting line + rolled bucket... if not, just wrap the whole mess around one of the side V-bars of the dolphin striker, in a way that's secure, but quick to deploy, e.g. half-hitches, bungees, etc.

5)I have set my trailer with a winch set high on the mast dolly. when singlehandedly stepping the mast the side stays are slack so the mast can swing to the side. I experimented a little and ended up using the jib sheet attached to the sidestays to pull them tight and thus keep the mast centered. Is thisn right or is nthere a better way?

Sounds good. Jib sheets and blocks are strong enough to do the job.

6) Foot straps. It seems like a great idea, but I dont want to get them in the wrong positions...

On lakes I've never needed foot straps... ocean, 'nother story... you need to sail the beast a few times before you decide on foot straps... non-skid material from stern to front crossbar is probably more useful. Also, footstraps (boardsailing type) can be DANGEROUS, e.g. if you do a wicked PITCHPOLE, it's better to take a wild ride 'round the forestay and go "SPLASH", than to have your leg ripped off at the knee, eh? You need something like snow-ski bindings, that release before your bones snap.

If you wear some kind of booties/aqua-socks with good traction soles (and you should), then you will probably only need--at most--1 foot strap on each side, and that's way in the back/stern, behind the rear crossbar... and you may want it mounted at a 45-degree angle. That's because that's where you'll be trapezing when you're far off the wind (broad-reaching), and the force-vector of the sail is well forward, and trying to push your bow(s) under. Your bows plowing under is really the only "braking" action that's going to produce negative (forward) G-forces that would pull you off your feet.

When sailing close to the wind, you'll be trapezing up near the front crossbar, trying to hold the bows down, keeping too much wind from getting under the tramp. You'll be even with where the trap wire is strung, no footstraps needed.


7) The daggerboards seem like they will push right through the hulls. Just push them down flush and forget?

NO WAY! If they're down flush, how will you PULL THEM UP? They should at least have holes near the top for thick rope handles, and maybe another hole for rubber stoppers...? Thick rope will prevent over-insertion. There may also be a gasket down in the board slot to keep water from spraying up through gaps...?

8) I liked the rudder/tiller setup on the Hobie 16. Will this, or a similar setup bolt up to my solcat?

Doubt it. At minimum you'd probably have to drill new holes to replace one or both gudgeons on each side. OTOH, there's lots of busted-up Hobies out there, whose owners are parting them out. You're not far from So-Cal, and the ocean breaks up a lot of Hobie hulls... watch the web.

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70649
03/31/06 01:58 AM
03/31/06 01:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
ReefedOne Offline
journeyman
ReefedOne  Offline
journeyman

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
PS: If your mast doesn't have diamond wires, it's because it doesn't NEED them... be HAPPY, much less hassle, and one less thing to poke through your new tramp when trailering.

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70650
03/31/06 10:23 PM
03/31/06 10:23 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 277
Baton Rouge, LA
Dean Offline
enthusiast
Dean  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 277
Baton Rouge, LA
Hi, Azcat,

I owned a Sol 18 for a number of years and can answer all your questions. I have some photos that I will e-mail to you and will also send many e-mails that I've sent to restorers of the Sol 18's during the past couple of years.

Aftermarket tramps will slide onto the boat via a bolt rope on the hulls. The tramp is a lace-up with lacing amidship. I have a photo. Endcaps removal? No. The boltrope on the each of the two halves slides into the aluminum guide along the inboard gunwale of each hull. A photo will follow.

I weighed 130 lbs when I was sailing the boat. It was a lot of boat for a small skipper but I didn't have trouble righting it by myself without any aids. I did it by swimming the tip of the mast into the wind. Then held onto a righting line attached to the hull while I leaned out as far as I could while standing on the hull in the water. Seal your mast caps and all the rivets with Goop/silicone. It always came up, eventually.

I stepped the mast with a winch mounted on the trailer. Tie the mast down near the step with some line in case it wants to jump off the ball during stepping. The mast did go side-to-side a little but no so much as to stop the stepping. I think I raised it with the main halyard and then pinned the forestay to the adjuster.

My boat was double-trapped. I didn't use footstraps. Too scary. It seemed like a great opportunity to break your ankles. I rigged a "chicken line" and barefooted it on the hull while out on the wire. This was back in the late '70's-early '80's. That's what we did back then. We were indestructable.

The daggerboards will get stuck about two inches into the hull. Rig a shock cord line through a hole in the top of the board to keep them semi-secured. They may slip down into the dagger well a couple of inches before they stop. Those are Nacra 5.2 boards.

The rudders setup and the auto release worked well. I never had a problem but I kept them adjusted properly. I may have a photo close enough to show them.

The dolphin striker is below the foward beam. On the 18 it the vertical rod, threaded on one end, was connected by horizontal aluminum flatbar, about 1/4" thick x 2" wide, extending from hull to hull. It dipped down at an angle to connect to the rod about 6" below the forward beam.

The 18 does have diamond wires and the boat needs them. I'll send photos to you.

I loved that boat. It was durable, fast, and terminally cool...until the Nacra 5.2 came along.

Check back to re-read this same post this weekend. I may do some editing for accuracy. Send me your e-mail and I'll zip the photos to you.

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: Dean] #70651
04/01/06 04:10 AM
04/01/06 04:10 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
AzCat Offline OP
enthusiast
AzCat  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
Thanks guys for your posts,
The bolt ropes wont pull out past the end caps dispite grabbing them with a pliers and pulling like a madman.

Whats a chicken line.

The rudders have a shock cord running down thru the tube, over the sheave and down thru a hole in the back of the rudder. when loose, the chord pulls the rudder up.
To hold them down, there is a 1/4" line running from the front side of the rudder, up over a sheave, and to the front of the tube thru a clam cleat.
It seems to me that if I run acriss anything in the water or run aground and cant release the clam cleats in time its going to bust up my rudders pretty good, or rip them off the stern. I had a H16 25 years ago and the cam release worked great, although I was sailing off north carolina mostley and when the jellyfish were swarming and the rudders would strike them they would kick up a little too often. Is there a better way to hold down the rudders than a clam cleat?

I tried to pop out the pins that hold in these sheaves using a punch and they didnt budge. I stopped because I didnt want to break anything. I fugured I better get some response before brating the crap out of my boat. It looks like this has to be the way to remove the sheaves and pins. I guess I'll try it again. Im sure the pins havent moved since 78 when the boat was built, they'll be a little tight.

The diamond wires. Do they help produce more power? I understand that they keep the mast from bending. How does this help performance? Is this an off the shelf, universal item that I can buy and just bolt on?

Quick shout to all those AZ catters. I dont think that I can make it to rosevelt this weekend. Im having some problems getting my trailer registered. The previous owner didnt register it properly and there are no vin #'s on it so I have to get a bonded title next week. If anyone knows where I can get a decent trailer cheap, I am interested. Even just a frame with a bad axle. This one is chopped up and rigged together but I have replaced everything on it to make it usable. The registration is the biggest glitch.

You guys have a great time out there. A few more parts and i'll look you guys up. Im the yellow solcat.


Auscat MKV 444 A class
NACRA I-20- 440/CATHATKA
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70652
04/01/06 09:51 AM
04/01/06 09:51 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 277
Baton Rouge, LA
Dean Offline
enthusiast
Dean  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 277
Baton Rouge, LA
The cleat on the stock boat was not a clam cleat. It was a cast aluminum part that was hinged with a pin on the stern end of the part. When the rudder hit something, this part would pop outboard and would pivot on it's pin to allow the release of the cord to the back of the rudder. It sounds like that part was replaced with clam cleats on your boat. The original parts would have looked like clam cleats but without the grooves for grabbing the line. Is that what you have on the boat?

A chicken line was a rope that was tied, mine was eye-spliced, around the aft beam near the cap and extended forward toward the end caps on the forward beam. The forward end of the line was tied to shock cord. The cord ran through the forward beam to connect the forward ends of the chicken line on each side. While out in the trap if you started to dig the bows or began to go flying toward the mast, there was a chance that you could grab the chicken line to arrest your flight forward.

Murrays.com might have the diamond wires or contact pcat@performancecat.com for the specs of the original wires. The wires are there to simply hold the mast up. They can be made by a decent rigging shop if you have the dimensions of what you need. West Marine's specialty riggers are located in N.C., I believe.

My Sol 18 was yellow. I bought it in New Orleans.

I tried to upload photos last night but my page space may be full. Send me a note to my e-mail: deanhubb@yahoo.com

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: Dean] #70653
04/03/06 07:26 PM
04/03/06 07:26 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
ReefedOne Offline
journeyman
ReefedOne  Offline
journeyman

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
AZ, I knew a real Solcatter would show up eventually. Sorry about the bad advice on the diamond wires, but in the huge photo I posted a link to, there are none. Upon closer inspection you can see the lower attach points, but I still see no clear marks where the missing spreaders attached...?

About the TRAMP: Saw a closeup pic on a Sol 18 that's on Ebay right now. As Dean says its main lacing is down the center, fore-and-aft... this leads me to question whether there's not a feed-slot dead-center on both front and rear crossbeams???? Perhaps Dean can elaborate on that. No doubt SaltyDog can set you straight on the order and method of install. Hopefully they include the correct lines for lacing too.

PS: On the Ebay photos, it looks like there's a pole running beneath the full length of the center tramp lacing gap... did Solcat come with a built-in righting pole? Or is that some aftermarket device? Am I seeing things? Go to Ebay Motors-->other vehicles-->boats-->Sailboats-->Sailboats under 20'... and check it out.


Edit: here it is... Sol 18 on Ebay

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: ReefedOne] #70654
04/04/06 12:48 AM
04/04/06 12:48 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
AzCat Offline OP
enthusiast
AzCat  Offline OP
enthusiast

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 337
Arizona
OK. I thinknI have the tramps figured out. I talked to salty, tramps should be here in about a week, any further problems, i'll let you know.
I am in the process of ordering trap gear and am unclear as to exactly what I need. I am ordering 4 trap line sand two shocks but do I need two or four dog bones? I have also seen the chrome bones and cable bones, any thoughts on preference? Also, thoughts on double adjusting setups. It looks like a it would work great. Is this something I need?

Thanks for the posts RE rudders. I havnt yet figured out a good solution other than getting a rudder release system off another type of boat and doing some fancy re-rigging has anyone had to do similar?
Thanks for all the help. It wont be long before im on the water, wont sleep well till I am.
Great wind


Auscat MKV 444 A class
NACRA I-20- 440/CATHATKA
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: AzCat] #70655
04/05/06 05:20 AM
04/05/06 05:20 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
ReefedOne Offline
journeyman
ReefedOne  Offline
journeyman

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
OK, so what's the secret of the tramp vs. front crossbar slot? The suspense is killin' me. Gotta say though, the more pics I see of Solcats, the more I like them. Someday I will give my cool, rather large Solcat poster to an owner who takes me out for some hull-flying.

Did you look at the Ebay pics? Is that just the boom that's under the center tramp lacing during trailering, a righting pole, er whut?


DOGBONES: You need 4 total, 2 on each side. Never used the cable kind; seems like they might be a bit springy/stretchy...? I have seen them on serious racing rigs, and with that "can't miss" type, you always have a handle in the same place, regardless of how long your rope tail is. I guess at $100 for a set of four, they'd better be AMAZING in some regard! Maybe it's just snob appeal, LOL. (If you had a swaging tool, you could make your own "can't hurt" or "can't miss" cable type bones for what, $1.21 in parts?)

I recommend the solid ELONGATED stainless bones, part #25-3620 on p. 48 of the current Murrays catalog. They orient correctly in your hand, and I have no trouble hooking up that huge loop without looking.

Strangely enough, those elongated bones are cheaper than the crappy old-fashioned original Hobie type chrome ones with just a small hard-to-hook cirle at each end, and a single skinny hard-to-grab hard-to-orient connector in between. AVOID THOSE.

Double-adjuster setups? 99.9% of people live without them, even racers. At most you would need them only on the rear traps, so the skipper could get low off the rear crossbar. Still, I may rig my own someday.

The good kind that keeps the T-handle close requires you to have your original wires shortened. Another good reason to meet up with the local fleet guys, and try out their various rigs first.

You already have daggerboards and diamond wires to deal with, plus your problem rudders. If you want to get out on the water, keep the other gear simple, for now. GOOD LUCK, post pics!

Attached Files
72029-ff_1.jpg (66 downloads)
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: ReefedOne] #70656
04/05/06 10:27 AM
04/05/06 10:27 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,582
“an island in the Pacifi...
hobie1616 Offline
Carpal Tunnel
hobie1616  Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,582
“an island in the Pacifi...
Quote
DOGBONES: You need 4 total, 2 on each side. Never used the cable kind; seems like they might be a bit springy/stretchy
I really have to disagree with the use of dog bones of any type. Those things will beat your head or break out teeth. Go with either the cable type handles or the balls. There’s been a lot of discussion in the Sailing Injuries thread about what’s the safest. The ball type seems to be getting the most thumbs up.


US Sail Level 2 Instructor
US Sail Level 3 Coach
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: hobie1616] #70657
04/06/06 09:56 AM
04/06/06 09:56 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 277
Baton Rouge, LA
Dean Offline
enthusiast
Dean  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 277
Baton Rouge, LA
I used the long dog bones back then but I would go with a more modern and safe design, today.

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: hobie1616] #70658
04/06/06 12:54 PM
04/06/06 12:54 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,558
Key Largo, FL & Put-in-Bay, OH...
Mary Offline
Carpal Tunnel
Mary  Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,558
Key Largo, FL & Put-in-Bay, OH...
What do you mean by "cable-type"? Are you talking about the plastic-coated, round ring with the little bar across the middle? If so, they are safer if you get hit in the face, but they can also break. They distort and get pulled out of shape, and because of this bending or "crimping" action, the cable can eventually break at the point where the hook attaches to the bottom of the ring. So if you use them a lot, they should be replaced occasionally when they develop that elongated, distorted shape.

Rick made an unexpected departure from our boat at least once, maybe twice, because of the ring breaking. We switched to stainless steel.

Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: Mary] #70659
04/06/06 02:20 PM
04/06/06 02:20 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,582
“an island in the Pacifi...
hobie1616 Offline
Carpal Tunnel
hobie1616  Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,582
“an island in the Pacifi...
Quote
What do you mean by "cable-type"? Are you talking about the plastic-coated, round ring with the little bar across the middle? If so, they are safer if you get hit in the face, but they can also break. They distort and get pulled out of shape, and because of this bending or "crimping" action, the cable can eventually break at the point where the hook attaches to the bottom of the ring. So if you use them a lot, they should be replaced occasionally when they develop that elongated, distorted shape.

Rick made an unexpected departure from our boat at least once, maybe twice, because of the ring breaking. We switched to stainless steel.
The first set I used lasted for eleven years. They went with the boat when I sold it. The second set lasted for ten years. They went with the boat to the Boy Scouts.


US Sail Level 2 Instructor
US Sail Level 3 Coach
Re: solcat 18 traps [Re: hobie1616] #70660
04/08/06 02:46 AM
04/08/06 02:46 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
ReefedOne Offline
journeyman
ReefedOne  Offline
journeyman

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 66
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
RE: pricing on "Can't Miss" cable bones... MY BAD, they're $50 for 4, not $100... vs. $32 for 4 on the indestructable stainless ones I recommended... not sure how those light stainless bones are gonna knock any teeth or lights out? If I'm sitting that close, or it's that rough, I hook up. Otherwise the shockcords keep them out of harm's way.

Anyway, good advice here on trap systems, but I'm assuming our man azcat inherited old hook style harnesses with his boat, and just wants to get out on the water for minimum $$...

Interesting debate 'tween Mary and 1616 on "Can't Miss" bones... seems 1616 got much more life span out of them than Mary... wonder what his usage/storage/crew weight numbers are?

Seems to me the plastic grab handle is under COMPRESSION, and is the weak part of the concept. I wonder what the UV resistance of that plastic handle is?

PS: While the ball and socket is snag-free when NOT trapezing, aren't you usually hooked up during wicked pitchpoles? And doesn't the tension of flying 'round the forestay usually KEEP you hooked up? If you're underneath the boat, you still have to unhook the ball from the socket.

... I solve the problem w/ the excellent ol' Matson Quick-Release buckle... nice.

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4

Moderated by  Damon Linkous 

Search

Who's Online Now
0 registered members (), 407 guests, and 70 spiders.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
Darryl, zorro, CraigJ, PaulEddo2, AUS180
8150 Registered Users
Top Posters(30 Days)
Forum Statistics
Forums26
Topics22,404
Posts267,055
Members8,150
Most Online2,167
Dec 19th, 2022
--Advertisement--
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1