I want a boat that's down to minimum weight, can be built incredibly cheaply and quickly at home. It needs to be incredibly fast in light winds as well as 20knots plus. Oh yes, it also needs to be the fastest fast thing ever in all the wind speeds in between.....<img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
I'll get me coat then?
John Alani ___________ Stealth F16s GBR527 and GBR538
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Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Jalani]
#87840 11/07/0611:55 AM11/07/0611:55 AM
How about canted hulls and daggerboards? I really do not know the proper terms, but try to visualize. The hulls canted outwords (away from the mast) and the dagger boards canted inwards (towards the mast). No extreme angles though. Something simple, maybe at 80 to 70 degrees from the mast.
I dunno im just throwing an idea out.
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Rolf_Nilsen]
#87847 11/07/0612:40 PM11/07/0612:40 PM
It'd have to be built in carbon/kevlar/epoxy because of all the compound curves. So that means building a plug, and a mould and a vacuum system so it's not a realistic home DIY project. Anyhow, it's only my idea of the ultimate, 'edgy' F16 hull shape. The hydrostatics actually look pretty good but I think it'd be really difficult to sail and the crew weight and position would be hyper-critical.
John Alani ___________ Stealth F16s GBR527 and GBR538
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Robi]
#87848 11/07/0612:44 PM11/07/0612:44 PM
There is some software available to analyze hull performance. When toying around with ideas, it can be a fun exercise to run your hullshapes trough it. A hull canted outwards should be inferior when sailing the boat flat.
The Stealth already has hulls canted at 4.5 degrees, I don't know that it makes a huge difference over vertically set hulls though.
Canting the boards has a lot of theoretical advantages and banana boards even more so. However, I don't think the F16 class want to be getting into the sorts of arguments that have taken place in the A Class......
John Alani ___________ Stealth F16s GBR527 and GBR538
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Jalani]
#87850 11/07/0612:44 PM11/07/0612:44 PM
Hmm, the way I would aproach that in a home build is install the board trunk close to the out edge on the deck and close to the inner edge on the hull.
The dagger boards to do not have to be curved. And to be make the hulls canted maybe create/build some beam cradles with an angle.
ill draw something up when I get home.
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Robi]
#87851 11/07/0612:50 PM11/07/0612:50 PM
there is always vertical foam stripping, strip plank or even cold moulding for one off projects. It gets more expensive the more high-tech you go, but not impossible for DIY.
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Rolf_Nilsen]
#87852 11/07/0601:13 PM11/07/0601:13 PM
From the DIY perspective. The hulls don't seem to me a big deal. Certainly there can and will be more development and refinement that will take place. Lots of folks have the time and skills to build Blade hulls or Mozzie hulls or take your pick hulls and that cost will not vary too much.
The superwing mast is the stumbling block. I sail/race an old boat on a limited budget. I only look at the F16 forum as I would drive past the Porsche dealership, very slowly and only looking.
What possibly can be done to take the "bite" out of the mast cost? Is it that much a contributor to speed? Can a different (more common) extrusion be developed along with accompanying sail.
I dont see why not. The question is, will it be as competitive as a wing masted F16? Depends on who is sailing the wingmasted boat vs the non wingmasted boat. So its a matter of who you will be sailing with. If it is just to ponder around a lake without any need for racing, then sure do it. But if you want to be competitive then the wingmast is the way to go.
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Robi]
#87854 11/07/0601:30 PM11/07/0601:30 PM
I personally am competitive. My point is I've been able to race a well taken care of second hand boat, that still is at minimum weight with relatively new sails and have great fun competeing in the middle of the fleet. Would my (if I could) buying a new boat or sails every year or so move me up (probably not).
Can a percentage be put on super-wing versus non? Is it like a turbo vs. non-turbo or is it like a Porsche with a VW motor? Or does anyone really know?
John H16, H14
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Jalani]
#87856 11/07/0601:35 PM11/07/0601:35 PM
I think the issue of wingmast vs. teardrop shaped mast on beachcats still is undecided. The latest showdowns between Blades and Stealths at least seem to imply so. The wingmast do produce less drag and possibly higher lift, but getting it in the groove is the hard part. I have heard that the A-class mast has become more wing shaped, but dont know how they compare to the Superwing. This is one of the reasons why the Zandvoort event next august will be so much fun (Robi, start working on your better part to get funding)
John, if you want to go F-16. Get or even homebuild the hulls and foils, and put any comparable rig on it and get on the water! In the end, time spent well on the water is what is important (both in competition and recreational sailing).
Re: Good start would be ...
[Re: Rolf_Nilsen]
#87858 11/07/0601:54 PM11/07/0601:54 PM
There is some software available to analyze hull performance. When toying around with ideas, it can be a fun exercise to run your hullshapes trough it. A hull canted outwards should be inferior when sailing the boat flat.
And what is really good about this program, (besides the fact that it is specifically for long thin catamaran like hulls) is that freeship can output the data directly to it, so if John can post his hull file somehow, I am happy to run it through michlet for you.
But as Wouter said unless you have a spec, i.e. something to aim for the results won't mean much.