Speekfreak,

I'm currently running a 100 % Goodall Yacht Sails (GYS) setup on my own modified Taipan F16.

I have an GYS alu snuffer ring with sock (2004) and I'm very happy with that. I bought an 40 mmx 2 mm (couldn't get 1.6 mm) alu pole locally for 30 Euro's = 50 Aus and build up my own spi pole. This is actually quite easy.

I have a 2003 GYC spinnaker sail of plain cloth (no silicon or anything). It works well in all respects except for the part where the supplier made an error in the sheeting corner. I can't sheet my spi of the sidestay (as intended), but it flies well now that I'm sheeting it of the mainbeam. Others have ordered Goodall spis after me and they all seems to do fine. I guess my own spi was just unlucky.

I have the GYC selftacking rail and fasters but I'm not using any of the other GYC hardware with respect to the selftacking setup. I bought 2 RF65 360 swiveling cleats and a handful of small Harken blocks to finish the selftacking setup. My sheeting system is simpler then the GYC setup. It uses less blocks and therefor is cheaper. I can tell you however that you will need a (combined) 1:4 purchase on the jibsheet. 1:2 (as currently used on Taipan ) is not enough for a selftacker.

I have a 2004 Goodall selftacking jib, fully battened, make out of Contender Apen 06 Pentex cloth. It is holding up just fine. No problems with delamination or whatever. In the past I used to advice dacron for jibs as the flapping about damaged the jibs quickly, not so with a selftacking setup.

I'm very happy with the GYC snuffer setup and selftacking rail setup. Both are the lightweight and work well. Neither is clogging up with sand or dust (2 things that are vital where I keep my boat). The snuffer system works well with even untreated plain cloth spinnakers.

As spi halyard cleat I use a plain ronstan camcleat secured to my forebeam with 2 parker screws and it is doing fine. There are many more complex halyard cleat systems, but often these are alot more expensive for not much improvement in handling. I decided again a cleat fitted to the mast as I'm sailing solo with a spi often and in that mode you really can't go the leeward side of the boat and reach up the mast.

I can warmly advice both the AHPC snuffer setup and selftacking rail. When push comes to shoove than you can seriously consider finishing the rest of the setup yourself. Building up your own spi pole is very cheap and easy to do if you have a blind rivet tang. The same applies the remainder of the selftacking setup. This setup will require only : 2 additional 360 swivelcleats; 2 additional small turtle blocks and 2 small micro blocks and the sheetline. This will get you a cascading 4:1 setup where you can use a thin line in the final stage (less drag)


I think I paid in total

Goodall spi 825 Aus
Goodall jib 500 Aus
Snuffer ring/sock 260 Aus
Selftacking rail+ car + fasters 290 Aus (I seem to remember)
Spi pole 45 Aus
2 NEW version Ronstan smart ratchets = 150 Aus
2 cheap Riley autoratchets (for doubling effect on the spi sheet) = 70 Aus
2 ronstan RF65 = about 100 Aus
Then a handful of eyestraps and small blocks + line + some monel blind rivets and stainless steel parker screws = about 150 Aus

Total = about 2400 Aus (about 1500 Euro's or 1850 US$)

So I think AHPC quote on the total package is not to far off. But as always, if you are willing to invest time and look for the good deals then you can skimp some on it.

I did it by using the Riley ratchetblocks (although the Ronstan ones are indeed very smooth inn use) and by simplifying the jib sheeting system.

If you go with the complete AHPC package then you will have the advantage of not having to invest all that time and effort and just go sailing with the setup in two weeks time.

I don't think that you will be able to get a better deal elsewere unless you are willing to assemble of even build up your own setup. If you want to do that then I can give you all the specs for doing so.



Extra comments :

Doing the mods in stages is good advice, BUT if you can buy both the selftacking setup and spi setup at the same time without getting into a devorce with your wife then I would really consider that seriously.

Chances are that after flying the spi a few times that you don't ever want to let go of that. This is one reason why no F16 sailor is willing to sell of their spinnaker sails. BUT the standard Taipan 4.9 jib setup is not really comfortable when flying a spinnaker. This setup is to far back on the trampoline making it feel small and it leads to spaghetti on your trampoline. You will not believe what the selftacker does to the feel of the Taipan. The trampoline will feel alot more roomy then before, it will also be a clean trampoline and now both skipper and crew can move across at the same time. The selftacker itself is a breeze in handling. Especially under spinnaker. You can so much better handle the spi in gybes that gybing duels and gybing on shift are actually fun to do. Even upwind you'll love it as it will allow the crew to make other trim adjustments during the tacks and really focus on roll tacking.

The spi kit is a turbo charger and it will make the boat alot less dive happy even in very strong winds. For this reason the spi upgrade is your first choice. But the selftacker setup will turbocharge the spinnaker setup once more and improve on the general feel of the Taipan design. As in making it more roomy on the tramp and less cluttered with lines and blocks. Taking a novice friend alone is easy as cake as well. Actually, a few times I landed to let my crew of, because she had to get away early, to only push the boat out again with its sloop rig and did a hour more sailing singlehanded as a sloop in abouy 15 knots of wind. Just set-and-forget that jib to a general acceptable trim and sail the boat as if it was a cat rigged cat.

You will get by far the best improvement of the boat if you get both upgrades at the same time. And this means that even if you don't that you'll be wanting to upgrade to the selftacker soon anyway. Why put yourself through a transition period if you really can have both at the same time. Indeed, I strongly advice getting both upgrades simultaniously.

Wouter






Wouter Hijink
Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild)
The Netherlands