Hi all,
after digesting all of your tips, this alternative is what I came up with. The carabiners replace the blocks on the slack lines. I think I will need them because I'm a lousy housekeeper when it comes to sheets! I'll remember to use a sloppy bungee so as not to chafe through the bottom of the spinnaker! (and check for such wear on any second hand (H16-F16) Spi I might come across!)

The tack line is separate now to get more control in general sailing and for sailing "odd" angles. Could anyone comment on my cleat and tack line placement? Is this do-able or would it get in the way?

I didn't put the halyard cleat up the mast so I could get at it from any angle. That's important to me because I won't be sailing around the cans most of the time. With less friction from the tack line, I gather this should not be a problem.

I removed one set of ratchet blocks on the sheets and the bungees between them. I could always add those later if needed.

What do you say, did i nail it this time? ..>Or do I need to re-think some aspect?

Thanks again,
Dennis

Just do it! Enough drawings... go rig your spin and capsize already!!!! (just kidding)

i have my tack line and cleat go the front beam, about 1' away from the mast.

IHMO the only advantage of a separate tack line is to be able to raise the spi faster around the can when sailing duo. Solo, it is faster to have only one line. I don't buy the argument that you can control the tack separately: with the one line setup you just release a little bit of halyard and your spi will balloon more, a little from the top, a little from the bottom, I don't think a couple of centimeter higher or lower is going to pay enough for the complexity of yet another line and yet another cleat.

I use a spinlock on the front beam, not a cam cleat, and I prefer it that way. Some people hate spinlocks, personally I like them for that particular purpose.

Pepin beat me to it. I was going to add if you're going to singlehand it, you'll want the combo tack/halyard setup. Yes its faster to have seperate lines, but there is plenty going on when you're solo.

I had a spinlock for my halyard on the front beam. I hated it. Always bumping it into the locked position when dousing. I use a swivel cleat on the beam with the fairlead over the top of the jaws on the cleat removed.

Dennis,
That's exactly how I have the spin rigged on my FX-1. It's a great setup. I tried to use a spinlock on the mast for the halyard like the F-18 guys do, but sailing singlehanded, the angle was wrong. And the slightest bump would cleat the halyard. Flipped a couple of times from that. I had to get too far away from the tiller
I just used a Ronstan swivel cam cleat on the fwd xbar. Take the strap off of the top of it so that you can flip the swivel 90deg and get the halyard completely out of the cams. Sometimes if the halyard rests back on the cleat, the line would re-cleat itself during the douse.
There are a few diagramshere.
Scroll down to sails and look at spinnaker setups. Or scroll to the FX-ONE and tiger diagrams.
Hope that helps. You're system looks great.

J

OK thanks guys, maybe I'll go for a simplified version of the 3 in 1 tack/halyard/snuff combo after all (I'll spare you the diagram Andrew). I'll see if I can check out some other real life setups too. We have a Tiger at our club and some Nacra F18s too. Together with the help you gave me that should give me a good idea of the type of blocks I need and where to put them.
I like the filed off swivel trick, that sounds like a good and simple solution for me.

Thanks again everyone!

I would go for the all-in-one setup for singlehanded cruising , much easier to operate from either side of the cat.
Do you have spi yet?

No Tony, I was planning ahead for next years project. This way I have more time to look for used parts.

Brought "Second Chance" back up to par. Dennis I just finished with the spin addition to my 5.2. She is old but has been completely rebuilt for single handed sailing. Including a self tacking jib, 16-1 cunningham lead to each side, carbon fiber bow foil, carbon fiber spin pole, downhaul on the jib, H16 spin, mid pole snuffer, rudder crossbar mods equal no play, 10-1 mainsheet, mast rotation control lead to each side, jib sheets contained inside front crossbar, and lots more. Here are some pics that might help you with your boat.


My 5.2 with out spin


H16 spin


TackLine


Spin Sheet


Spin Sheet Blocks

[img]http://www.saylorspecialties.com/nacra/DSC00032.jpg[/img]
Front crossbar and spin bag

[img]http://www.saylorspecialties.com/nacra/DSC00031.jpg[/img]
Bow foil, spin pole.

[img]http://www.saylorspecialties.com/nacra/DSC00029.jpg[/img]
Spin Hoop

[img]http://www.saylorspecialties.com/nacra/DSC00027.jpg[/img]
Line for pole prebend. Found that I need to add a little more bend.

[img]http://www.saylorspecialties.com/nacra/DSC00025.jpg[/img]
Tackline exit and cleat, spin halyard cleat (going to change block and add stand up spring)

More photos




Spin Pole end attachment lines and tackline.


Spin attachment point at cross bar.


Spin pole attachment point at back of pole. (Don't use bolt, just pin it now)


Spin halyard turning block on mast (have put heat shrink cover on red lines).


Still doing some tweaking with line placemant and housekeeping while sailing. But she handles great under spin, a lot to keep up with for one person. The self tacker takes care of herself. Set the main and forget, play with spin sheet and drive. If you have any questions or would like more specific photos let me know. All the custom carbon, spin hoops and bags/socks I build and have for sale.

Thanks,

Carl

Saylor Specialties L.L.C.
www.saylorspecialties.com

Nice work
be carefull of the 16;1 down haul, the lug on the halyard won't take it maxed out. you don't need much downhaul on a soft rig anyhow.
likewise, be carefull of the 10;1 mainsheet on that boom. The clew of the sail does not line up with the sheeting point so you will be trying to bend the boom!

Agreed - with 16:1 you will probably be able to break something...

The sheet attachment point on the boom looks stock, however.

Dennis,

If you go with the seperate tack line like in your second sketch run the tack line through the back carabiner and then to the second one and get rid of the shock cord. When you pull the tack line on (kite up) this will give you slack in the halyard/retreval line. Then as you douse the kite and the tack line runs forward it will suck up the slack and everything will be nice and tidy. If you then run a retreval point to the clew as discussed in the f16 forums at length (do a search) you'll end up with a nice tidy tramp upwind.

Thanks for the photo's Saylor, and tips Scarecrow!
The H16 spin looks about right to me, did you have any trouble getting the right sheeting angle set up?

Any tips on doing my own spin hoop Saylor?

I've attached the spin sheet blocks to the side stay. Angle is fine. I think it could be pushed back a little bit to be perfect, but considering that the H16 spi I have is a second hand bag bought on ebay for a pittance it's not worth the trouble of making holes in my hulls.

On my stealth the spin blocks are set up on the trampoline, but I don't trust the old trampoline on my Nacra to do the same.

FYI, two years ago I paid 230 british pounds for the hoop and bag as used on a Stealth, including shipping, direct from StealthMarine. It's a great aluminum hoop. It is designed for a fatty carbon pole (30mm diameter I think) and needed some shimming to fit on the thinner alu pole I have on my 5.2.

The best you can get at a decent price;
http://www.nacraeurope.com/nacraNL2ndDetails.php?id=117

I modified the H16 spinnaker a bit, Took it into my shop and took a little off the foot of the sail mostly towards the clew to raise the clew about a 6". I attached the turning block to the side stay. The spin hoop I make myself, I made the molds last year and have sold a few. They are the same size and design as in the link from performance NACRA. I have the bags made in florida in two lengths one for the shorter boats like mine and the other for 18'+. If you are making a one off hoop there are lots of ways to do it, one way would be to use a foam ring and glass over it.

Carl

Saylor Specialties L.L.C.
www.saylorspecialties.com

thanks for the tip Carl,
I'll keep an eye out for a foam ring then!
Dennis