Robert,

Buy one! But if you insist:

On the next side I am going to spend more time in the set-up of the jig. One problem on this hull shape or benefit is the amount of curves concave and convex (compound). The curves are very tight and a bit radical. I cut the foam in what was a medium width for the average for the boat to allow fewer saw and router settings. The cove and bead cut help smooth the curve. But I am rounding square strips. There are several things to consider for the next side. One thing to note the bog in most spots is just a thin skim coat by the time it is sanded out.

Glue
I used West System to glue the strip together, which is very hard and does not sand at the same rate as the foam. I have read about gorilla glue (GG) that dries softer and sands about the same rate as the foam. I will make a test panel to make sure that GG and West System Epoxy play well together. Then I'll be able to do more shaping to bare foam.

Vertical Strips
The Farrier boys use this system now and they raked me over pretty good on Sailing Anarchy even Ian Farrier himself chimed in. Instead of using long horizontal strips (longitudinal) they use Vertical planks up to 24” wide. The station are actually spaced further apart but there are wooden longitudinal runners on the mold. You may have to heat the foam to get it to bend. This is not a bad idea if the curves in the boat are slow. I may use this method for the ama’s. The mold construction is more elaborate so it will take longer. Look at his website he has a small downloadable builders guide that has one page on this then a bunch stuff on his plans. It is like I told Ian my boat has curves in three plans not just two and the curves are tight so this method is not the best for me at this time.

Frame Station
My stations are 12 inches apart so I don’t think you could get much tighter. I used 3/8 inch Divinycel H-60. I’m going to use 3/8 H-80 on the ama’s for several reasons: stronger, stiffer, and the plans call for a mix of H-60 and H-80 so I’m just going with the H-80. Also you go thicker but 3/8 seems pretty good. Let me know if you are looking for a router bit there is a combo bit that makes both cuts.

Sanding
Because of all of the curves it is really hard to sand the frames. I’m going to spend more time faring out the frames before I start to foam it out. Especially now that I know from the first half where the highs and lows are.

CNC
If I had the money and better connections in CNC world I’d have the shapes cut out of wood or foam and make a simple mold. That is big bucks, so far I’m still working that idea out.

One Last Note
It is a ton of work! But if you like to that type of thing it is very rewarding. I think of myself as a sculpture but I work in composite instead of stone. Good Luck let me know if can help with anything. Look at my website my contact for Carbon Fiber also does Eglass, ect… she gets good prices.