Originally Posted by Rolf_Nilsen
Hi Scarecrow,


Questions:
7. Uni strips with carbon? How much would you guesstimate is enough for a 1995x21x180mm board?

8. Fairing. How much work is this and how precise is the result? How critical is the trueness to the designed profile?

9. Is this laminate only to make the foil durable so a 120 to 220gsm glass cloth is enough?


In your opinion:

How critical is accuracy to the designed profile. Is a tolerance of 1mm, 0,1mm or even 0,01mm the target?

What about geometry of the foil. Any tapers complicate work. Same with rounding off the tip etc. Yet this is often not discussed even if it is "standard" to aim for an elliptical pressure distribution and to avoid drag from tips.


Thanks for your insights, much appreciated!


We are operating at reasonable Reynolds numbers, close to 1 million when sailing at 10 kts. Doing some first order calculations, assuming the flow is laminar (i.e smooth), looking 0.25in (6.4mm) aft of the LE, the boundary layer is 0.098in (2.5mm). Effectively this means any scratches or bumps within that distance would have no effect on the performance of the foil as the water around the foil can't even see them. However, there are A LOT of assumptions made in that first order analysis and you always want to build the best foil you possible can. My #1 tip if selecting a foil for a home build is to go with something whereby the performance doesn't degrade drastically due to imperfections. For example, a laminar flow section like the NACA 63-209 discussed here (http://www.foils.org/hysecdes.pdf) is much more sensitive to surface imperfections and things like kelp than a more traditional foil. The NACA0010 that was designed to operate in a more turbulent flow environment where the boundary layer is even thicker and hence you can get away with even more, besides it is easier to build accurately.


Scorpion F18