OK, so what's the secret of the tramp vs. front crossbar slot? The suspense is killin' me. Gotta say though, the more pics I see of Solcats, the more I like them. Someday I will give my cool, rather large Solcat poster to an owner who takes me out for some hull-flying.

Did you look at the Ebay pics? Is that just the boom that's under the center tramp lacing during trailering, a righting pole, er whut?


DOGBONES: You need 4 total, 2 on each side. Never used the cable kind; seems like they might be a bit springy/stretchy...? I have seen them on serious racing rigs, and with that "can't miss" type, you always have a handle in the same place, regardless of how long your rope tail is. I guess at $100 for a set of four, they'd better be AMAZING in some regard! Maybe it's just snob appeal, LOL. (If you had a swaging tool, you could make your own "can't hurt" or "can't miss" cable type bones for what, $1.21 in parts?)

I recommend the solid ELONGATED stainless bones, part #25-3620 on p. 48 of the current Murrays catalog. They orient correctly in your hand, and I have no trouble hooking up that huge loop without looking.

Strangely enough, those elongated bones are cheaper than the crappy old-fashioned original Hobie type chrome ones with just a small hard-to-hook cirle at each end, and a single skinny hard-to-grab hard-to-orient connector in between. AVOID THOSE.

Double-adjuster setups? 99.9% of people live without them, even racers. At most you would need them only on the rear traps, so the skipper could get low off the rear crossbar. Still, I may rig my own someday.

The good kind that keeps the T-handle close requires you to have your original wires shortened. Another good reason to meet up with the local fleet guys, and try out their various rigs first.

You already have daggerboards and diamond wires to deal with, plus your problem rudders. If you want to get out on the water, keep the other gear simple, for now. GOOD LUCK, post pics!