All of these things you are talking about are interrelated.

The front beam location, sets the mast locations and restricts the allowable center of force. The center of force is related to the dagger board location. All of these are related to the center of volume of the hull which is related to the max width and depth of the hull.

All of these components are related. The relationship is not always linear either. That means moving one component 2 inches does not mean moving all the others 2 inches in the same direction. Sometime when you scale you luck out and sometimes you don't. Some very good designs, appear to be the result of dumb luck in scaling. They had a so-so 18, 19, or 25 footer and they added 1 or 2 ft to the bow or chopped 1 ft off the sterns and 4 ft off the bow and the new design was a LOT better than the old one

You will see some rules of thumb in design books, like "A has to be 90% of B". These rules assume a starting point, like, The mast is 55% of the waterline length from the stern or the boat is 20-24 ft long. If you don't conform to the basic assumption, things don't always work. .

I ran a lot of computer simulations and found you couldn't just scale a 14 from a good A-cat, which was my plan. However, my design had some assumptions, high top speed, stable and self limiting at the extremes.

Enough negatives, you need something to start with. For a race oriented 14 ft boats, 20-22ft cats scale to 14 better that 16-18 ft. A scaled NACRA 6.0 or Tornado ) would make a pretty good 14. If you scale a Flyer in length and width, it would probably work as a 14. For 14 ft versions of all of these I would put more initial volume near the bow to stabilize them.

Other interesting options are to scale a pin tailed Moth in length or take a 14 ft skiff and compress the underwater portion to about 9-10 inches wide

When I say scaling, I don't mean exactly. Try an keep things simple like 7" 1" instead of the exact scaled value of say 7.05479346. This will make things easier to build.

I would be careful of a 12 wide hull. That is pretty wide. You run into a problem with hobby horsing. That is where you hit a wave and the boat rocks like a hobby horse while stopping or slowing way down.

I tried to build scale models of 14's in tortured ply. With 10 inch wide hulls, I kept breaking the plywood

Don't take my opinion as gospel. I can say with hind sight, I looked in great detail at a very narrow range of designs. There are a lot of other possibilities.