I think Phill Brander still supplies the Blade F16 plywood plans?
The measurements you need is from bow to chainplate, bow to main beam, bow to daggerboard and bow to rear beam.
1: Layup schedule. I can not advice you there.
2: Unless you have a way to add a fillet and glass tapes on the inside of the hull after putting the deck in place, I would do a shear stringer. I am comfortable with wood stringers. Alternatively a flange of some form. At least you need some extra glue surface area to stop the deck from popping off.
3: 10mm bulkheads are overkill. 4mm ply with cutouts will do. Foam/carbon is lighter, but I can not help you with the laminate schedule. I have done some foam/glass bulkheads and they did fine on a Tornado, but I am not comfortable on advicing you on foam/carbon/glass.
4: Ply is a possibility, or a nice spruce or WRC plank with some hefty reinforcement in fibers. If going with foam/carbon, you will want to make this part as stiff and strong as possible to minimize flexing and wracking.
5: If I was to do carbon chainplates I would do it like Farrier does. Be careful with alignment and size it for shock loads.
http://www.f-boatmart.com/images/P/F-22chainplate400-01.jpg6: High aspect ratio, symmetric. Important part of the boat to get right and with high quality on the build and surface. Asymmetrical have been tried in other classes and have not paid off sufficiently yet, except in the C-class AFAIK.
7: Yes.
8: Not neccesarily. Depends on your layup schedule.
To get tips on layup schedules you could try getting hold of guys like Bill Vining, Kevin Cook etc here on catsailor.com. Remember that what you get here is advice given with good intentions. The advice might be spectacularly wrong and lead to catastrophic failures..
